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MG Midget Front Springs

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lesingepsycho

Jedi Warrior
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Hello all,

I lowered my car last week by dropping the spring perches and everything came out great. The ride stance is perfect, the un-sightly fender well gap is gone, the car handles nicely, just one slight problem. The stock spring rate coils (271 lbs) don't keep the exhaust from scraping when I go over even mild bumps. I would like to keep the car at it's current ride height and so I'm looking for a pair of stiffer competition springs (520 lbs or 400 lbs) Before I shell out the ducats for a new set I figured I would send out the bat-signal and see if any of you out there have a pair you'ld be will to part with. Thanks everybody,
LeSingePsycho (the psycho monkey) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif
 
If i remember right I got mine from Winners Circle they make alot of competition stuff for midgets and sprites check them out. Good Luck. Lane /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/patriot.gif
 
Don't want to hijack a post, but I am planning out the same work that you have finished (f.suspension rebuild w/ poly bushing, heavy springs, lowered an inch). I am new to suspension rebuilds, and have a question regarding bushing reaming: is it only the kingpin bushings that require reaming, or do all the new bushings require reaming. I have had no luck with other sources of info, and have come to the 'xperts. Also, is reaming something best left to a shop, because of the tolerances and clearances involved?

any help would be appreciated. I am trying to learn as much as I can BEFORE I start, so I don't screw too much stuff up AFTER I start.
 
Hello, Thanks for the reply and I am always happy to give any info that I can. Unfortunately that isn't a whole lot here because on my car, my dad and I had the suspension professionally rebuilt when I was still in High School. We bought the "Major Suspension Kit (Moss number 264-088) and then took all the parts and the car down to a shop that we had been referred to as being good with british cars. They did all the work so I don't know a whole lot about the reaming of the bushings but I bet that would make a great post on the forum and I bet you there are some people on there that will really be knowledgeable and help out with that.

JACK
 
Morning all,
The king pin bushes are the only ones that need to be reamed. it is best left to a machine shop. However you can do the prep work your self, and maybe save a couple of bucks. the biggest pain in the but was getting the dust covers removed from the backside of the swivel. mine were so stuck i had to destroy them in order to get them out. the king bushes can be driven out of the upper and lower with the correct size drift punch. The new ones installed in the same fashion. When re installing be sure you get the grease holes lined up correctly. Since i work in a machine shop i was able to make 2 diameter drift punches to do this. i also purchased the correct reamers and made guide bushings for my reamers to be able to keep everything aligned. worked well. Moss sells a reamer for the job (386-380) but at almost 300$ it was a bit out of my range. i think the reamers i purchased were less than 50 for both. I dont recall the sizes but if you need to know i can dig them up and let ya know.





mark
wishing i was /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif my Mg

ps: wait till you folks get to the lower fulcrum pin...
 
Thanks. That is the same rebuild kit that I am planning on purchasing. I am a little curious to see how "frozen" my fulcrum pin is, along with everything else! 27 year old car? Should be interesting. If I need the reamer info, Silent, I will give you a shout. Thanks for the offer, and thank again to both for the info.
 
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