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TR2/3/3A Measuring and honing cylinders

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jfarris

jfarris

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I am ready to track down a plug fouling problem with a compression and a leakdown check, but want to be ready to take action if it is a piston ring problem. When you measure the wear in our wet liners and hone the cylinders, do you use a torque plate or simply some washers, pipes, and steel straps to torque down the liners while you work on them? I can only find one company selling torque plates for a Tr four cylinder engine and they restrict sales to retail companies (I have access through one).
Thanks in advance,
 
jfarris said:
I am ready to track down a plug fouling problem with a compression and a leakdown check, but want to be ready to take action if it is a piston ring problem. When you measure the wear in our wet liners and hone the cylinders, do you use a torque plate or simply some washers, pipes, and steel straps to torque down the liners while you work on them? I can only find one company selling torque plates for a Tr four cylinder engine and they restrict sales to retail companies (I have access through one).
Thanks in advance,
Click to expand...
I think once you get the head off and if the liner bore looks good ,and then you get the piston out and that looks and measures good then honing may be an option.I doubt your thinking of honing to the next oversize with a ridged hone so for a glaze breaker I think the washers would work fine.
Tom
 
Hello Jim

I used thick washers/spacers that would bridge between 2 cylinders and clamped them down with pieces of black iron pipe cut to length.
The shop that did my work honed the liners in situe. I numbered them then removed them when I got the block home and replaced the Fo8 seals.

David
Block with hold down washers.jpg
 
My bores were in good shape they honed then to break the glazing. I could probable have done it at home with a tool from the auto parts store but as the shop had the block I said to go ahead and hone them. They were already stripping the block and replacing the cam shaft bearings.

David
 
Tom & David,
Thanks for the ideas and report on your results. I thought I remembered the washer and pipe method working on these engines. The engine is strong and runs good except for the #2 plug fouling. While the head is off, I'm going to have it and the rocker assembly updated as necessary and hope to only have to hone one cylinder just enough to break the glaze and install new rings.
 
I also just used washers. A pair of long sockets work well instead of the sections of pipe:

head1_zpswsciuhzi.jpg


The cardboard over the pushrod cavities are because I have been known to drop things.
 
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