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Maybe I need a reality check.

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Team_Sprite

Team_Sprite

Jedi Trainee
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After installing most of our new wiring harness (cloth covered w/blue piping) tonight we started to do the dash. I really like the way everything fits and the overall quality of the set-up….right up to the plastic bulb holders with separate ground wires. Does anybody else think these things are shamefully cheap? I ventured into the eagle nest of old wire, and looked at the original bulb holders, and they were nice metal units with a good spider to hold them firmly in place, apparently getting their ground through the dash. The plastic ones grip on the surround can best be described as shy and tentative. Unless someone can talk me out of it I’m going to cut off the plastic bulb holders, and rewire (old cracked) the original bulb holders, connecting them via wire nipples and the double female insolated connectors. Why would they do such a nice job and then use cheap plastic bulb holders, am I missing something? I know the new units use the baseless type bulbs, but I rather like the bayonet and screw base type. Enlighten us please.

Brian & the girls
www.teamsprite.com
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
Don't know where you got your harness, but mine (from British Wiring) had the metal bulb holders. I think it would be perfectly reasonable to wire in the old metal holders.
 
This is just MY opinion, BUT: You're doing a "good deed" by taking the time to retrofit the original bulb holders. The things are basically bullet-proof. The cheezy plastic replacements WILL require attention, they're subjected to all sorts of temp/shock conditions and WILL fail to stay in place, or in one piece for that matter. The old holders are a snap to fit to the wiring. You may need to fabricate an insulator or two but it'll be time well spent. The old ones lasted 40+ years so far, the "new" ones would start to give grief the first time the car goes over a set of railroad tracks!
 
I agree with Doc, my harness (aheemm) be it many years ago had metal. Replacing them would be a good idea to save poblems from plastic down the road.

BTW, I also thought that they were used ad a ground to the gauge for the bulb.

Patrick
 
The ones in my restored bugeye are just like yours. The plastic ones don't stay in place at all well. But, it probably doesn't matter much, since you can't see the light through the tiny jewel in the speedometer and tach, anyway. I'd favor using anything but the plastic ones. You might be able to find new metal holders in one of the electronics catalogs: allied, digikey, mouser. However, these are old technology, and thus are getting hard to find. Might be worth a try, though.
 
Thank you gentlemen, we feel sufficiently fortified to carry on. Tomorrow, replace the lay gear in our smoothcase in the morning, rewire the bulb holders in the late afternoon. By the way, the Moss battery tray covers up the heater cable exit hole, would you: cut down the back of the tray, or drill a hole and insert another grommet? We're not going to send it back.

Brian & the girls
www.teamsprite.com
 
[ QUOTE ]
By the way, the Moss battery tray covers up the heater cable exit hole, would you: cut down the back of the tray, or drill a hole and insert another grommet?

[/ QUOTE ]

The battery tray never had a back, it was just a tray.
I am so glad I don't buy anything from moss.
 
Aye, wonders where those come from, maybe I'll have to fake it.
 
I don't have much to compare it to, but I have been more than happy with everything from Moss so far. I get what I order within two days of the call, and they have been very supportive of our project. I looked this afternoon, and the battery itself sits in front of the hole, the cable snakes around the battery anyway, this only adds a fraction of an inch. Actually, it protects the cable housing. It wasn't a thought out question, the cable comes out from behind the tray just like it comes out from the battery.

Brian & the girls
www.teamsprite.com
 
< You're doing a "good deed" by taking the time to retrofit the original bulb holders.>
Mission accomplished, all wired and looking neat and tidy. Thanks for the good advice.

Brian & the girls.
www.teamsprite.com
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif
 
I'm not as much a "purist" per se as a phragmatist when it comes to this kind of stuff. The metal holders are rock proof, so why not keep 'em... OTOH, when it came time to attach trim panels (3/16" polycarbonate "Makrolon") I drilled the body holes to accomodate #6-32 "NutZert" inserts. Used stainless machine screws in place of the poxy self-tapping sheet metal, RUST inducing ones BMC installed. "Originality" gone for a chop. But if/when this LBC goes to its next owner, many of the minor annoyances won't exist.
 
absolutely .. i've always looked for ways to make something better and if it's metal or plastic, it doesn't matter. my real goal however is to make it better without letting it look different. certainly, there are some aspects of all these early cars that are better designed today. you just don't want it to look that way. in the case of plastic bulb holders vs metal, it's pretty straight forward. just make sure your splice job includes the proper level of TLC to ensure it does not come back to haunt you later (no after halloween pun intended!)
 
One of the joys of our cars is no or limited plastic.
 
[ QUOTE ]
One of the joys of our cars is no or limited plastic.

[/ QUOTE ]

except to pay for the parts /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif
 
Yep, got that right.
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif
Yup! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cryin.gif
 
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