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I just finished rebuilding my MC on my '76B, it went pretty well, getting it on and off was the biggest problem. Now for my trouble. I think the brake failure piston is hung up and is not allowing pressure to the rear wheels. The pedal is soft after bleeding and with the car on stands,brake pressure applied I am still able to turn the rear wheels (new shoes,cylinders and adjusted)Should that piston move freely? What position should I start it out at? After removing the large nut at the front end of the MC should that piston be seated in as far as I can get it or should I start out with it up against the distance piece? Thanks, MACK /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
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Master Cylinder rebuilb
- Thread starter Mack
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HE HE HE!! I have been waiting. The problem is in the pressure switch. If you take off the switch and put an awl in the hole you will feel the slope of the activater inside. You can move the piece until it is centered. ALL manuals stress that to bleed brakes you must use a slow steady pressure not the pump and hold method. If you have used the pump and hold then the pressure switch has more than likely activated. It sounds like the MC was rebuilt correctly so I would not take it apart anymore. You can rebuild the pressure switch ($6.50 from Moss) if needed. The piston will need to be remove by air pressure so put a rag over the end of the valve when applying air so you don't have to chase the piston all over the shop. Try to center the piston and use the slow (when the bleeder is open)method. This worked for me.
