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Mallory optical distributor

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Tinster

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Does anyone have any experience of more than one year
with a Mallory conversion into their TR6?

I am reading they are very reliable, don't burn up like
Petronix, wear out like points, blow up like condensers
and seldom leave you stranded on the side of the road.

I am looking to make my car reliable. I stumbled onto
Mallory which searching for a replacement for my rebuilt
Lucas dizzy.

thanks,

Dale
 
Years ago, I had one on my 57 Ford. Worked great.

Dual point set up lasted quite well. Only difficulty with the 6 or I would have gotten one, is that they did not make tach drive, maybe they do now, or you could convert to an electronic tachometer.
 
Dale,

I've got one that I've been running for over two years now (gosh, has it been that long?). It's never not worked... and I've never fouled a spark plug since installing it.

The installation is a bit hairy and it ain't cheap by any stretch of the imagination, but I've never had to touch it since I've installed it. RonMacPherson is correct, they do not offer a tach drive unit so you would have to get your tech converted to electric, but this has advantages to it as well.

Here is a link to my original post a couple years ago. It contains part numbers and instructions.

Mallory Install

I think a few people think I'm crazy, but this is a nice mod. If the quality of replacement parts weren't so suspect nowadays for the Lucas dizzy, I would have a much harder time quantifying the price of a Mallory, however if you consider the time that I haven't wasted fiddling with the old units, the investment starts to make a little more sense.

If you have any questions, let me know.
 
I think there is something about the Tach won't work with it?
 
Roofman...read the two responses to Dale's post. Both of them mentioned no tach drive.
 
I think I'm asking the wrong qustion.

I want to make my TR6 reliable and not so prone
to break downs.

I have easily put over a million miles on my Jeeps
over the years and never had distributors blow up,
never had to set timing, never fouled out spark plugs,
never broke down due to bad points or blown condensers.
(blown up Jeep clutches is another thing ! )

What can be updated or changed out on the TR6 ignition
system to make it reliable? Do modern autos even have
mechanical gear driven distributors?

I'm just pondering as I think about the large box of spare
ignition parts in my trunk- for emergency break down
repairs.


d /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/driving.gif
 
Dale, I've been driving LBC's of one kind or another since 1966, and can only recall once dying on the road due to a distributor problem, and that was <span style="color: #FF0000">my</span> fault. I didn't tighten the points screw down all the way, and they slid closed. Two minute fix, and back driving.
I think you're trying to over think the issues. There have been countless millions of miles put on these cars without catastrophic failures of the type you envision.
Jeff
 
Oddly enough, there has been a long discussion on another forum about Mallory condensors failing on TRs.

Most modern cars don't use distributors at all, but rather a computer-controlled (timed) system with a separate coil winding for every one or two spark plugs.

But it seems to me that we are confusing "reliable" with "no maintenance required". A Triumph is always going to require maintenance, unless you replace the entire drivetrain with something else (and even then there will be SOME maintenance required).

But from my point of view, the original system was pretty darn reliable. Yes, it required regular service; but it (almost) always got you home. Arguably I think, that's even more "reliable" than electronic systems, since the old points, rotor and condensor generally give warning when they need to be serviced; while electronics are much more apt to fail suddenly.

If you want something that doesn't have to be fed and cared for, get a Miata.
 
TR3driver said:
Most modern cars don't use distributors at all, but rather a computer-controlled (timed) system with a separate coil winding for every one or two spark plugs.
Click to expand...
Oh and this can be a huge problem as VW/AUDI learned the hard way. what was it two years ago that they couldn't even ship new cars since all the coils were going to repair failing units on customers cars.

Dale
you have a nice properly rebuilt distributor, so the main shaft isn't wobbly. That is good since points will work properly as long as the shaft isn't wobbly. At the worst with points, the engine will miss a bit, and it will do that long enough before you are in trouble that if you are paying attention, you will have plenty of time to adjust (or clean ) it properly at home.
The only thing that could really get you stuck is the rotor, so just keep an extra rotor with you and you are all set.
 
I agree with Randall. I drove my Triumphs way over 100,000 miles in the late '60's and early '70's with no ignition breakdowns.
But I have had a lot of problems with my TR6 over the last two+ years. All due to junk replacement parts.
That is until I had Jeff rebuild my dizzy. He told me he uses replacement parts of certain brands and sources. He did not want to say more, but since he can supply them I can live with that.
 
Dale, the Crane(originally Allison design) is very similar to the original Mopar electronic ignition. It is an optically controlled ignition. You've got the shutter wheel, the optical pickup and the triggering unit.

Installation is the key word, properly installed there is no reason why it will not last many, many moons. I know that when Crane bought the Allison design they did away with the lifetime warranty and went to just one year.

The only failure I have seen of a Crane/Allison is because of faulty installation, where the pickup lead wires weren't given enough slack in the distributor and eventually wore through the insulation as it was being rubbed against the distributor body by the advance.


The only ignition failures I've encountered on mine, after I converted have been with rotor and distributor cap.

Stay away from Bosch, in my recommendation, the lifetime and quality of their cap and rotor(which availability is ubiquitous) are ones that should only be used as a temporary backup. Standard/BlueStreak and good Lucas(dunno if there are any available anymore) are what I recommend.

But, as an aside. Your distributor has had the bottom end rebuilt right? So the shaft, cam lobes, bearing and ground wire and advance weights, springs, etc. are all in a-one condition. Get a quality points and condensor set, good cap and rotor, install 'em and drive it. If the breaker block is lubed with good distributor grease, the mileage will be at least 10K, probably more.
 
Thanks one and all!

I guess I'm quite a bit paranoid given that every ignition
component and every fuel delivery component and every
suspension component as well as the cooling system and
clutch system and wire harness of this car has failed under
me and had to be replaced or rebuilt.

I have greatly enjoyed driving Amos 350 miles without a
breakdown. But there is this little tickle in the back of
my brain waiting for something to blow up or fall off.

I drove more miles yesterday than I was able to drive in
all 12 months of year 2006 at 67 miles.

Thanks as always

dale
 
Dale
All those paranoid feelings will go away as you put more miles on Amos. Right now, the memories of trouble are too real in your mind, (sounds like Dr. Phil, doesn't it).
My suggestion is--- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/driving.gif
Besides, I do know where Puerto Rico is, and I'm brushing up on my Spanish.
And Erin is gone to the city to hone her driving skills in a Tapon
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/yesnod.gif
Dave
 
I can not take any exception to TRDRIVERS comments. He is totally correct. BUT over the last 20 or so years I have been taught that complacency is not a good attribute. Through away the idea the worst enemy of good is better. More sparks IS better. The only products that seem to break regularly are the ones that completely fit under the distributor cap. I don't hear the break-downs with the products that have most of the components out side of the distributor cap.
 
Dale,

I can't say this enough, but I truly believe that the Pertronix failure issue was caused by the battery switch issue that had the coil hot constantly. That is not good for any type of ignition, let alone an electronic version.

Proof? No problems since you fixed the battery "hot" problem, right? You don't need another distributor, just a properly wired battery less all of those troublesome switches that were previously installed.

I'm really hoping that they're all long gone by now.
 
Brosky said:
I can't say this enough, but I truly believe that the Pertronix failure issue was caused by the battery switch issue that had the coil hot constantly. That is not good for any type of ignition, let alone an electronic version.
Click to expand...
Definitely a known problem both with Pertronix and Crane/Allison/Piranha.

However the latest Crane units (with the LED on the brain box) have a special circuit just to alleviate this problem, they will shut down if the engine doesn't turn.
 
I keep a complete conversion kit for points and condensor, with several rotors and a coil in my boot. I get all my ignition parts from that little shop in PA because they have yet to fail me (much) in replacement parts quality. Currently have a Pertronix (yes, the last one is somewhere in Brosky's parts bin) and guess I am waiting for it to fail, or I fail it. I agree with the above comment about the quality of replacement parts being less than stellar today. Last year, went through half a dozen rotors before I found one that worked more than 5 minutes.

A separate point on distributors: doesn't hurt to take them out of the car once a year and take them down. Really aren't that complicated. They need lubing and cleaning like anything mechanical. Those weights do get to sticking and binding.
 
Thanks Bill,

I had Jeff rebuild my distributor one year ago for
Petronix or points. The Petronix blew up and David
switched them out to points.

Since Jeff rebuilt the distributor exactly one year ago,
is it now time to pull it out and have it rebuilt again?
Jeff's turn around time is very fast.

thanks,

Ps: I;m going back to Dr Payne again this morning.

d
 
Dale,

If it's running well. Don't touch it. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/nonod.gif

Brosky's right; a constant hot would destroy any ignition, Mallory, pertonix, Crane.. you name it.

The main reasons I replaced my ignition was:

<ul>[*]Performance. with higher compression hi-po cam and triple carbs it was the next thing to do to compliment my setup [*]Reliability. I had three distributor shaft failures in less than 2 months, 2 of them with "rebuilt" units[/list]
I don't think any of the above conditions apply to you. If you start to have failure after failure or you want to go to the next level after adding some go-fast parts, then I would definietly reevaluate the Mallory setup.

Meanwhile just drive the thing.
 
Tinster said:
Since Jeff rebuilt the distributor exactly one year ago,
is it now time to pull it out and have it rebuilt again?
Jeff's turn around time is very fast.

d
Click to expand...
No you should wait 75,000 miles when it will be just about ready for a tune up.
 
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