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Mallory Dual Point gap
- Thread starter BJ8TONY
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Randy Forbes
Yoda
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I'm thinking I used .025" (.026"?) but it's been so long since I've set them**, I don't remember! By nature of the dual-points, you already have a longer dwell time, so you needn't add more by opening the gap wider.
** currently, I'm only using one (1) set of points as a trigger for an MSD 6AL ignition system, so there's virtually no arcing at the points__set & forget!
** currently, I'm only using one (1) set of points as a trigger for an MSD 6AL ignition system, so there's virtually no arcing at the points__set & forget!
Thanks for you reply's
I did set them up at .028 and it seems to be running fairly well.
Now it is on to a carb problem.
I am running triple Webbers 45 DCOE's.
On 1 carb I get little to no change when I try adjusting the idle mixture screws.
Always some challenge!!
Thanks again
I did set them up at .028 and it seems to be running fairly well.
Now it is on to a carb problem.
I am running triple Webbers 45 DCOE's.
On 1 carb I get little to no change when I try adjusting the idle mixture screws.
Always some challenge!!
Thanks again
Randy Forbes
Yoda
Offline
After the valves, ignition (points and timing) are set, loosen the linkages and balance the carbs; individual barrels of each carb first, and then the three carbs together. When they're balanced and you're retightening the linkage, take into account the slack in the individual linkage ends, so that each carb reacts at EXACTLY the same time. If one (>1) carb comes in before another, you'll never achieve crisp response.
Once the airflow is equal, then you can start working on mixture strength__but take heart, there are only sixty-eight (68) variables :glee:
Once you start getting close on idle/low speed settings, you can cheat a little bit by pointing an IR thermometer at the individual exhaust header tubes (as close to the head-port as possible, as long as you can read ALL SIX at the same point). By increasing/reducing mixture volume, you can walk the EGTs pretty close together.
Unless you've got a chassis dyno at your disposal, I see lots of test drives, and numerous First Class plug-cuts in your future.
Once you get the carbs set, leave them alone! With the exception of a slight increase in mixture strength after moving to Florida, the 45 DCOEs on my car haven't been touched since not long after those first couple of pictures were taken. Incidentally, When I first purchased them (1986) I specified 36mm main venturis, for improved signal strength (aka, higher velocity through auxiliary venturi than with the more common 38mm chokes).
Good luck
Once the airflow is equal, then you can start working on mixture strength__but take heart, there are only sixty-eight (68) variables :glee:
Once you start getting close on idle/low speed settings, you can cheat a little bit by pointing an IR thermometer at the individual exhaust header tubes (as close to the head-port as possible, as long as you can read ALL SIX at the same point). By increasing/reducing mixture volume, you can walk the EGTs pretty close together.
Unless you've got a chassis dyno at your disposal, I see lots of test drives, and numerous First Class plug-cuts in your future.
Once you get the carbs set, leave them alone! With the exception of a slight increase in mixture strength after moving to Florida, the 45 DCOEs on my car haven't been touched since not long after those first couple of pictures were taken. Incidentally, When I first purchased them (1986) I specified 36mm main venturis, for improved signal strength (aka, higher velocity through auxiliary venturi than with the more common 38mm chokes).
Good luck