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Mallory Dual Point Dist

Airbornevet

Freshman Member
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I am planning on installing a Mallory Dual Point Dist on my 71 B. I know the shaft will have to be drilled for the drive dog, but what gap is used for each set of points? Anyone had one of these and have any pros or cons. Thanks
 
Just my opinion of course, but why go with the dual point if you could go with the Unilite?

When you have the shaft drilled, make sure that you have .020 (as I recall) play in the end of the distributor. When you order the distributor, it should tell you exactly how much play is permissible.

As for point gap, I think it should be between .018 and .022 thousandths.

As for pros and cons, I really can't say either way. I have a Unilite distributor as well as a Lucas unit that has a Pertronix kit in it. Both seem to work just fine. The downside to the Unilite, is cost of course, and replacement modules are expensive.

The only things I can say for points, is that they usually will get you home if you run into trouble. The electronic won't.

I am sure some of the others here that have the dual point units will chime in shortly.
 
Only way I know to set up a dual point dizzy well (correctly) is to yank it out and put it into a Sunnen "Distributor Machine"... otherwise it's a crap shoot.

Eel-ectronic iggy systems are too much tech in a car designed for 1962, IMO.

With a 24D, points, condenser, a 12V test light and a matchbook will have it running in ten minutes. For $10.

:devilgrin: :smirk:
 
DrEntropy said:
With a 24D, points, condenser, a 12V test light and a matchbook will have it running in ten minutes. For $10.

:devilgrin: :smirk:


So another user of the matchbook paper point gap, eh?
I swore by them in my old Land Cruiser. It was impossible
to get a set of gauges down there in that &%#* distributor.
I didn't know anybody else to use the trick an old mechanic taught me till now. I'd tell others about it and get the strangest looks, like I was insane. Old school has it's tricks.
 
The Mallory is basically eye candy useful for bragging but no better than the original Lucas. And harder to find bits for, like point sets. Never had any use for them.
 
Gundy said:
DrEntropy said:
With a 24D, points, condenser, a 12V test light and a matchbook will have it running in ten minutes. For $10.

:devilgrin: :smirk:


So another user of the matchbook paper point gap, eh?
I swore by them in my old Land Cruiser. It was impossible
to get a set of gauges down there in that &%#* distributor.
I didn't know anybody else to use the trick an old mechanic taught me till now. I'd tell others about it and get the strangest looks, like I was insane. Old school has it's tricks.

Age an' guile, babee. Age an' guile. :wink:
 
I have to agree with Bill, especially the later Mallory dual point units, I seen quite a bit of trouble form them, and Mallory way of solving is to give you a credit on your dual point to upgrade to the electronic version, the Unilite, that doesn't vow well for Mallory employee think of their own product. We used one years ago on the Huffaker MGB race car I had, and it served us well, but folks of late buying new one have not had the same experience. I think they are better alternative, the Petronix Flamethrower, letting Jeff at Adavnaced Distributors rebuild a unit for you, or other high end aftermarket offerings like the 1-2-3 electronic programmable units.
 
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