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Hi Gang, I have a '60 BT-7 that has a "modified" Mallory distributor and I'm fairly sure it's causing problems. Originally, a Mallory dual-point distributor (centrifigual advance only) was modified to use OEM Lucas points & condenser sets, which it apparently did fine with for some time. Now, with new points & condenser, it will finally idle again, but above 2,500 rpm or so, it does a Rice Crispy thing... it Snaps, Crackles, and Pops, as if it's trying to fire MORE than one jug at a time. Wires are good and tight, subbing a new coil made no difference, and there do NOT appear to be carbon-trails in the cap either. Timing is correct. NOW - it seems as if Mallory was purchased by Holley, so they quit making many Mallory products, and among them, were all of the single-point distributors AND parts for same. Talking to MOSS about the Pertronix, they're unable to confirm that the Pertronix electronic distributor will work in a BT-7 (mechanical tach drive), but their website gives the impression that it WILL. Help... Tom
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Mallory distributor on '60 BT-7
- Thread starter w0eaj
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Bob_Spidell
Yoda
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Pertronix doesn't care what kind of tach you have, but there are different models for different year engines. I believe a BT7 should have a DM6 distributor (see here):
https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/pdf/lucas_distributor_specs.pdf
There is some, er, disagreement as to whether it will work with electronic tachs (works fine in my BJ8). What you need to determine is if Pertronix will work with a (apparently bodged-up) Mallory distributor. I'd be tempted to convert to a Pertronix distributor:
https://pertronix.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?limit=30&q=lucas+25d6
I haven't talked to them in a while, but the Pertronix techs were always knowledgeable and responsive in the past.
https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/pdf/lucas_distributor_specs.pdf
There is some, er, disagreement as to whether it will work with electronic tachs (works fine in my BJ8). What you need to determine is if Pertronix will work with a (apparently bodged-up) Mallory distributor. I'd be tempted to convert to a Pertronix distributor:
https://pertronix.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?limit=30&q=lucas+25d6
I haven't talked to them in a while, but the Pertronix techs were always knowledgeable and responsive in the past.
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Tom--
I believe I mentioned this over on the autox site but in any case check out using Mallory's Unilite system. Mine has been faultless over the last 15 or so years with the exception of a ballast resistor that failed about 6 months ago--an easy and inexpensive replacement. I originally had a dual-point unit but switched it out for the solid state innards.
I believe I mentioned this over on the autox site but in any case check out using Mallory's Unilite system. Mine has been faultless over the last 15 or so years with the exception of a ballast resistor that failed about 6 months ago--an easy and inexpensive replacement. I originally had a dual-point unit but switched it out for the solid state innards.
Wow! Thankx everybody. Yes, I've read of the Unilite system as well as the Pertronix. (Mike, that 100-4 LM is Bee-you-tee-ful) The mechanical tach-drive (i do NOT have an electronic tach like the BJ-8) is an assembly just below the distributor base, and without pulling it, I'm not sure if the drive-dog (the subject of contention, seemingly) is below or AT it. I do know ONE thing - having a "cobbled" part is not a headache I wish to continue with! I think it's time to get on the phone. (had a '65 BJ-8, sold in 1972... brought home from Guam Island, no less!)
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The tach drive on a 100 is on the left side of the engine and independent of the distributor driveshaft. On your car both the distributor drive and tach drive are "related"--see p/n 106 on the Moss "Internal Engine 100-6,3000" catalogue page.