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TR2/3/3A Major oil leak from original oil filter system 1960 TR3A post 600000 series

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Tinkerman

Tinkerman

Darth Vader
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Lotsa oil leaking from the original canister type of oil filter. Do I tighten all of the bolts or do I move to the screw on type of replacement? Tired of trying to stay original and having it create problems for me. I'm very ready to start driving it on the road instead of back and forth on my driveway! Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated! Dick
 
Dick --

Is the leak around the base of the canister or elsewhere (like where the head meets the block). Your comment "Do I tighten all of the bolts" suggests the latter and a change to a spin-on won't help.

That said, the base of the canister is the more common leak sometimes due to old or even superfluous O-rings in there.

I prefer originality too but have the spin-on conversion on both TRs and like the convenience of a quick & clean oil change. I do paint the filters an appropriate color so I don't see orange or yellow or such down there:

OilFilters_zps65772c9a.jpg
 
Dick:
A little puzzled by your "all of the bolts". To replace a cannister filter you need only to remove the cannister by backing out the bolt that goes through the cannister. If the leak is coming from the bottom of the cannister, you need to replace the two o-rings on that center bolt (one between the cannister and the bolt , the other inside the cannister at the bottom of the bolt). If the leak is at the top of the cannister then you most likely have two gaskets where only one is needed. To order the two o-rings on the bolt, go to the Triumph parts book and order from TRF useing the Triumph numbers. Keep it original Dick, you are too close to lose sight of the goal now.

Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana
 
If the leak is between the filter head and the cylinder block (or at the bolts or banjo fitting for the pressure gauge); then converting to a spin-on won't help at all. Basically the spin-on adapter mounts to the filter head exactly the same way that the canister does.

But it should be easy enough to get those areas to seal. If you have to replace the gasket between the filter head and block, be sure to check the filter head for flatness while you have it off. Mine was distorted. Also be sure you have the correct copper washers on the banjo (two different part numbers originally) and the special sealed nut.
 
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