• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Machined Engine Block - Cleaning before assembly and paint. Not sure what to do?

hcallaway

Jedi Warrior
Country flag
Offline
ti9UYpl.jpg


The block was hot tanked and baked. The cam bearings have been installed. Cylinders honed etc. I think the block is far from being rid of any grit before assembly.
I am worried about any amount of rust.
Now, I have to figure how to clean it. The plan is to get it mounted on an engine stand.
Wash it with soap and water. Blow Dry/Brake Cleaner and then use something like transmission oil to keep it from a flash rust.
I had planed on using something like a WD40; however, I was told by the machine shop that it can have a bad effect on the cam bearings since they are aluminum.

1 Clean the block.
2 Tape it off and prime and paint.
3 Some kind of oil based protectant on the bare metal.

I would like to get a long block assembled so everything is not exposed to the elements and in an engine bag.

or

If I have to wait a few months before assembly keep the block etc. wrapped and in plastic bags. Do I need to do anything else since it seems kind of oily?
 
You can prime the exterior before its painted and Glyptal the interior like the factory did..

Before you paint you will need to remove any oil or you will have a problem. Hot water and Dawn or Grease Lightning, or Purple Power will get the oil off.. If you get the block hot enough the water will flash off quickly.. Then your ready to paint.

P1010388.jpg
 
Being cheap and lazy, I just put my block on a wide sawhorse, degreased it with Kurd Kutter (Dawn, Awesome, etc. work great), blew it dry with compressed air (leaf blower works great), sprayed rustoleum phosphoric acid on it to kill some old rust, washed with Kurd Kutter again, rinsed and blew dry. I like to tape up the edges of surfaces that don’t get painted, tape up any holes or plug them, put the head on with an old gasket, put the valve cover on and prime with either self etching or engine primer, let dry for 30 minutes and top coat, followed by a second coat. Too many coats of paint will hinder heat transfer thru the block, so don’t get carried away...it ain’t much, but every degree helps on these engines. Let it cure in the direct sun for a few days before you store it...I then wrap the entire thing in commercial plastic wrap and so far no issues. 13-14 months is as long as I’ve left one this way, don’t know about longer.
Rut
 
I notice that the block oil galley plugs are still in the block. If you really want the block thoroughly clean they will need to be removed. The block then is taped clean with a round wire brushes. Then insert the threaded plug with JB Weld on the threads to prevent leakage.
 
Back
Top