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Tips
Tips

Lubricating Speedometer Cable

No doubt you'll get many answers on this. I like Lubriplate 630. A light coat, don't over-do it.
 
Steve -

Actually, technically, you are not supposed to lubricate the cable. Once lubricated, however, you can't go back and must lubricate it.

I'd use a very sticky, heat resistant lube that does not liquefy when hot.

Either white lithium grease or moly lube, a very very light coat.

Avoid, at all costs, having lube anywhere near the instrument end - if it leaks up into the speedo, it will cause it to fail.

Alan
 
Well, there you go, making assumptions: As my speedo is fine at slow speeds but does a bit of jumping around at around sixty to seventy I just assumed that the old lube had gotten sticky and the thing needed re-lubing. Perhaps this is not so? Perhaps something else is at play here? Any ideas on what could be causing the above symptoms? Thanks!
 
This often happens when the spirally-wound center cable begins to wear out and at higher speeds it alternately winds up, then unlays, etc. causing the needle to surge faster and slower in a rhythmic manner. I would inspect the cable by undoing one end and carefully extracting it.
 
Steve -

Jumping of the speedo is caused by one of three things:

1) the speedo cable is worn and is springing back and forth. Lubricating the cable won't help here - the only fix is to buy a new cable

2) the speedo cable is too long and is pushing on the back of the magnetic cup inside the speedometer, causing the needle to wobble. Have a shorter cable (not sheath, just the cable) made.

3) the lubrication between the needle and magnetic cup in the speedo is shot and the cup is grabbing the needle alternatively, causing wobble. the only way to fix this is to have your gauge rebuilt by a professional. You can't do this job yourself, you'll ruin your speedo.
 
I would add one more possible cause for the jumping speedometer,
a worn out angle drive that is about to stop working and/or the washer is missing between the angle drive and the o/drive.
 
One more (from personal experience): if one of the small nylon gears that drive the odometer or tripmeter is cracked or otherwise damaged you'll get very rhythmic, speed-related jumpiness.
 
Gentlemen:

The ONLY thing that goes on speedo cable is
Powder Graphite !!!!

My friendly Locksmith carries it as does the speedo shop a dozen towns away.

I patronize both as best I can so when I do get in a jam..... :smile: :smile:

And when grease, white Lithium, moly DO get in the instrument :hammer: :hammer: Margaret at Mo-Ma is the ONLY person I have used for 20ish years. Some NY shop well known for leaky shocks screwed ONE (MGTC) up for me badly enough that I had to send Margaret not only org. unit AND a spare I had to buy. :hammer: :hammer:

:cheers:

Ed
 
Wow! Good info, guys. Well, as my particular cable has been in the car around 20 or more years it is probably OK in its length. I used graphite to lube it the time I installed it, so that is probably OK. That leaves the speedo itself, the cable is just worn out and possibly the angle drive. I think I will start with a new cable..... Thanks, guys!

I am starting a new project with the car and want to catch a few odds and ends as I do this. The instigating issue was that the hand brake mounting had broken free and needed welding back to the frame. To do that I had to take the tranny tunnel off, etc. So, now I will replace the carpet (the original isn't "bad" but I happen to have a new carpet set and I want to install some sound deadener/heat insulation to the floor, firewall and tranny tunnel) and as the speedo cable is very accessible when the tunnel is removed, now is the time to address that. I wonder if there is anything else that I should be doing while in this area?
 
When I removed my transmission to replace the clutch, I read on this forum about using aircraft cowl seal material to seal the base of the trans. tunnel to the vehicle floor. This comes in a roll, it is about 3" wide and 9' long for about $20.

I just laid it down and put the cover on and used the sheet metal screws for the tunnel to go through the seal and hold it in place. It works great to seal out the heat from the tunnel. I used it also on the front trans. cover flange to the firewall. This was a large source of heat coming into the car.
Here is the order info:

Please click on the following weblink https://www.aircraftspruce.com/orderdetail.php?SOPT=D&ORN=322045&CN=348696 for the current status of your order.

Please notify us immediately by replying to this email if there are any discrepancies!


Thank you for choosing Aircraft Spruce.



A summary of your order follows:


QUANTITY BACK NET
PART# ORDERED ORDER PRICE EXT
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05-00755 SILICONE 1/8" X 3" X 9' RED 1.00 0.00 19.000 19.00
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TOTAL ORDER 19.00
PLUS APPLICABLE SALES TAX AND SHIPPING CHARGES


For your convenience, you can use the web at https://www.aircraftspruce.com/autocustsvc.php?CUSTNO=348696&ORN=322045 to request changes to your order.

Thank you.

Sincerely,
wwwcustsvcemail@aircraftspruce.com
 
Tim -

Thanks for the tip on that, very helpful. You may want to edit your post to remove the link to your personal info....

Alan
 
healeynut said:
Tim -

Thanks for the tip on that, very helpful. You may want to edit your post to remove the link to your personal info....

Alan
Yes, I just reordered some on your CC! (Just kidding.) :laugh:

Here's the real link.
 
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