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'70 GT6, I have put in new harness and new master lt. switch, the wires going to the col. dim switch are blue, 2blue white, blue/red, purple/black. I ordered a used col. switch and it has brown, blue/red 1blue/white, brown/red;the wires on master lt. switch blue, red/green, brown, all the running lts. and blinkers work but no main beams, the horn blows when clicking on lt. switch. I have tried every possible combo on wires still the same. Owners manual does not show same wires for col. switch. Wife is getting madder by the day. Help
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LT/Switch makes horn blow
- Thread starter 2campdogs
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Hello 2CD,
what actions do you have on your new column switch? is it a combined indicators, lights,(main dip and flash) and horn?
Colours:- brown is live feed to master light switch. Blue is headlight feed to dipswitch, blue/red is dip beam, blue/white is main beam (smaller of the two blue/white is to the main beam warning light) red/green is side light feed.
purple/black is the switched earth for the horns or horn relay.
Alec
what actions do you have on your new column switch? is it a combined indicators, lights,(main dip and flash) and horn?
Colours:- brown is live feed to master light switch. Blue is headlight feed to dipswitch, blue/red is dip beam, blue/white is main beam (smaller of the two blue/white is to the main beam warning light) red/green is side light feed.
purple/black is the switched earth for the horns or horn relay.
Alec
Thanks Piman I was hoping you might reply we have talked about this before if you recall. I bought a used col. switch thinking it might have the right color wires but did not the problem seems to be the brown/red wire nothing seems to match it. the switch is just the dimmer main beam/low beam nothing else. I have the brown wire from switch to the purple/black from harness; bluewhite connected to double blue white from harness; bluered to bluered; that leaves the Brown red from switch and the blue from harness. According to the manual for GTplus this does not match. The only Brown/red that I can find in manual is for GT6 Mark 1. I do have a black wire and a Blackgreen from the harness that I thought went to a buzzer, should I have one of these connected some where? Thanks a bunch
Hello 2CD,
you have a strange switch. A Brown/Red wire is used for "Compression ignition starting aid to switch"
Does the switch have a push/pull action to go from main to dip and a push button on the end?
Really the best way is to use a meter to identify what wires correspond to what action. Normally a dip/ main switch has three wires, a common which is the blue from the master light switch and an either or output as you operate the switch blue/red and blue/white. (think of the letter Y, with blue joining at the bottom leg and either or one of the upper legs. If the blue is connected at the top leg only one of the others will work).
Try and explain to me what action(s) the switch has.
Alec
you have a strange switch. A Brown/Red wire is used for "Compression ignition starting aid to switch"
Does the switch have a push/pull action to go from main to dip and a push button on the end?
Really the best way is to use a meter to identify what wires correspond to what action. Normally a dip/ main switch has three wires, a common which is the blue from the master light switch and an either or output as you operate the switch blue/red and blue/white. (think of the letter Y, with blue joining at the bottom leg and either or one of the upper legs. If the blue is connected at the top leg only one of the others will work).
Try and explain to me what action(s) the switch has.
Alec
The switch operates by pushing or pulling up or down no button, There is one just like it on e-bay with the same color wires and everyone tells me this is the only switch available, maybe I should not have the brn/wire connected to the purple, but that is what the manual shows, we tested the master switch with a meter and I think my helper said it was an open circit, does that mean anything,also do you think I need to try and connect the back ground wire someway. BOY
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2CD,
sounds to me like everything is working just fine, Lucas wise.
Cheers,
Walter
sounds to me like everything is working just fine, Lucas wise.
Cheers,
Walter
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Piman,
Thanks for the acknoledgement of my expertise. My method for dealing with electrical things on my car is when they break cut them out and replace them with something I know more about. Thats why I don't have electronic ignition anymore and why I have so many toggle switchs on my dash.
Cheers,
Walter
[ 02-28-2004: Message edited by: waltesefalcon ]</p>
Thanks for the acknoledgement of my expertise. My method for dealing with electrical things on my car is when they break cut them out and replace them with something I know more about. Thats why I don't have electronic ignition anymore and why I have so many toggle switchs on my dash.
Cheers,
Walter
[ 02-28-2004: Message edited by: waltesefalcon ]</p>
Did you by any chance own this car? Just kidding, it had cruise control intermitten wipers, rear window wiper, more wire splices than you can count. ripped it all out and started new, this from a guy who can barely change the oil. I can not wait to share your info with my helper the Eng.
Hello 2CD,
So the switch has just two positions, but has four wires? That suggests to me that it controls two circuits, unusual. It doesn't seem correct for a light switch.
Your check on the master light switch depends on which position it is in. Check between the brown connection and the red\green shoul be open circuit (i.e. no connection through the switch) at of, and closed circuit at side and head position. Check between the brown and blue should be open circuit at off and at side and closed circuit at the head position.
You need to carry out the same meter check with the column switch to see what connects in what position. Until you can do that it is difficult to advise.
Don't forget to thank Waltesefalcon for his useful contribution, by the way.
Alec
So the switch has just two positions, but has four wires? That suggests to me that it controls two circuits, unusual. It doesn't seem correct for a light switch.
Your check on the master light switch depends on which position it is in. Check between the brown connection and the red\green shoul be open circuit (i.e. no connection through the switch) at of, and closed circuit at side and head position. Check between the brown and blue should be open circuit at off and at side and closed circuit at the head position.
You need to carry out the same meter check with the column switch to see what connects in what position. Until you can do that it is difficult to advise.
Don't forget to thank Waltesefalcon for his useful contribution, by the way.
Alec
Hello 2Cd,
OK, I'll look out for your next post.
Waltese,
I agree, I don't and have no plans to go electronic on my ignition or anything else for that matter. I believe it is over rated and the alleged trouble with a points system vastly over stated.
Even some of the diehards confess that it doesn't give any discernible power increase.
And for the record my '67 Triumph is left outdoors, driven all year round as my daily driver.
Alec
OK, I'll look out for your next post.
Waltese,
I agree, I don't and have no plans to go electronic on my ignition or anything else for that matter. I believe it is over rated and the alleged trouble with a points system vastly over stated.
Even some of the diehards confess that it doesn't give any discernible power increase.
And for the record my '67 Triumph is left outdoors, driven all year round as my daily driver.
Alec
64Spitfire
Senior Member
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I have a headlight col. switch with the same color code. I installed it as follows on my 1964 Spitfire;
Switch RED/BLUE connected to Harness BLUE
Switch RED/BROWN connected to Harness RED/GREEN
Switch White/BLUE connected to Harness BLUE/BROWN
Switch Brown---open
I don't have my manual with me in which I made notes, just went out to the parking lot and checked. I'm at work.
Switch RED/BLUE connected to Harness BLUE
Switch RED/BROWN connected to Harness RED/GREEN
Switch White/BLUE connected to Harness BLUE/BROWN
Switch Brown---open
I don't have my manual with me in which I made notes, just went out to the parking lot and checked. I'm at work.
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Piman,
My spitfire came with the electronic ignition when I bought it and because of it my little car actually made me walk ten miles once(0the only time it hasn't made it back to the house when there was a problem). I was so furious at the fact that my car just quit running with no signs of a problem that I got a mechanical distributor and replaced it. At least when points start to go out you know somehting is wrong.
Cheers,
Walter
My spitfire came with the electronic ignition when I bought it and because of it my little car actually made me walk ten miles once(0the only time it hasn't made it back to the house when there was a problem). I was so furious at the fact that my car just quit running with no signs of a problem that I got a mechanical distributor and replaced it. At least when points start to go out you know somehting is wrong.
Cheers,
Walter
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2CD,
I never owned any GT6 though I would like to so I couldn't be the culprit. Your master light switch is the large black plastic one is it not? If so the bottom should be in for the lights to be off, the middle position should be running lights, and the top pushed should be headlights. I am thinking maybe the neutral position you are talking about is the middle position?
Cheers,
Walter
I never owned any GT6 though I would like to so I couldn't be the culprit. Your master light switch is the large black plastic one is it not? If so the bottom should be in for the lights to be off, the middle position should be running lights, and the top pushed should be headlights. I am thinking maybe the neutral position you are talking about is the middle position?
Cheers,
Walter
I feel for you. I haven't even tried to figure mine out yet on my GT6. I find if I push the lever down on steering wheel switch then the lights will come on if I have the main switch on but if I push it up then I get no headlights, only the running lights. I await your final solution because I know I will be there in the near future.