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MGB Lowering an MGB
- Thread starter CraigFL
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Nunyas
Yoda
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not to mention that lowering your car by going with smaller diameter tires *really* throws your speedometer out of wack. Case in point, I had a pick-up back in the late 80's/early 90's that I lowered and put smaller (i.e. lower profile) tires on. Stock was 195/75 14, I had to switch to 185/60 14 (the lowest profile tire for a 14 inch rim at the time) for fender clearance, and my speedometer was so far out of wack that it read 15 to 20MPH faster than what I was actually traveling at. I know this because I was pulled over for no rear bumper (I grew up in FL) I was going "60" in a 45 according to my speedometer but the officer said I was spot on with the speed limit.
Also, a 45 series 14" tire? Do those actually exist? I mean the side wall profile on a 185/60 is in the 1.5" to 2" range, and when stretched out over a 7" wide rim it's pretty low, and are at least 2 - 3" shorter in height than a 70 series tire (equalling 1 to 1.5 lower stance).
At any rate, the more mechanically sound method is to go with lowered springs and/or coil-over conversion kit... Or even better (for later "raised" MGs) adapt the front cross member w/ suspension components from the early model B's. And if you wish to go with a lower profile tire then it's a good idea to make up the tire size (diameter) difference with a larger rim, just to reduce the chances of throwing the rest of your drive train out of wack.
Personally, when i get the time and get everything else corrected with my 'B I'll be lowering the car's suspension with springs and then stepping up to a 15x5.5" or 15x6" rim with 195/60s
Also, a 45 series 14" tire? Do those actually exist? I mean the side wall profile on a 185/60 is in the 1.5" to 2" range, and when stretched out over a 7" wide rim it's pretty low, and are at least 2 - 3" shorter in height than a 70 series tire (equalling 1 to 1.5 lower stance).
At any rate, the more mechanically sound method is to go with lowered springs and/or coil-over conversion kit... Or even better (for later "raised" MGs) adapt the front cross member w/ suspension components from the early model B's. And if you wish to go with a lower profile tire then it's a good idea to make up the tire size (diameter) difference with a larger rim, just to reduce the chances of throwing the rest of your drive train out of wack.
Personally, when i get the time and get everything else corrected with my 'B I'll be lowering the car's suspension with springs and then stepping up to a 15x5.5" or 15x6" rim with 195/60s
G
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I have 195/60 14's on mine and I have to watch out for speed bumps of any height. Not to mention steep drive ways. Muffler scrapes. But much improvement in cornering.
Bob
Bob
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CraigFL
Jedi Trainee
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When you lower with springs, you tend to change the suspension geometry. I realize that speedometer error increase but that can be corrected. I just look at it as an inexpensive way to lower without all the mechanical parts - front and rear. It seems most lowering kits try to lower 1" to 2" anyway....
196/60-14's lower the car about 1/2" over the std tires.
Toyo Proxes 195/45-14 are readily available for about $80 each and are extremely good tires.
Mine is a '79 and sits high anyway...
196/60-14's lower the car about 1/2" over the std tires.
Toyo Proxes 195/45-14 are readily available for about $80 each and are extremely good tires.
Mine is a '79 and sits high anyway...
Nunyas
Yoda
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yes lowering with spring tends to "alter" your suspensions geometry, but we're talking only an inch or two. Which is not as dramatic/traumatic to your suspension as lowering it 6" like alot of trucks tend to do. You mention you have a rubber bumper. Have you considered what your car will look like with a set of 195/45 14s under it? Yes, it'll be lower than it was, but the suspension is still "lifted" (rubber bumpered cars were "lifted" to meet bumper height regulations). Sure the tires will be wider and look better from the front or rear, but from profile I'd venture to think it'd look like the car is on 4 donuts (modern car spare tires). Also, you'll increase your fender gap substantially the 24" 185/70 tires fill the wheel wells pretty well. Decreasing the tire size to a 21" 195/45 tire will create a void that use to be filled with wheel and tire(ever seen a monster truck with street tires?).
Personally, I like to keep the wheel wells full, and prefer the look of "tucked" wheels and tires over the look of an empty wheel well. Too each his/her own, though. I've seen worse in the past, and I suppose I should be thankful that I haven't seen someone try to fit 21" wheels with "Spinners" (wheels that weigh a ton and keep spinning when you're stopped for those that don't know what i'm talking about) on a car as small as a MG yet.
Personally, I like to keep the wheel wells full, and prefer the look of "tucked" wheels and tires over the look of an empty wheel well. Too each his/her own, though. I've seen worse in the past, and I suppose I should be thankful that I haven't seen someone try to fit 21" wheels with "Spinners" (wheels that weigh a ton and keep spinning when you're stopped for those that don't know what i'm talking about) on a car as small as a MG yet.
bobmga62
Jedi Hopeful
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I have kept an old style cross member from a 73 in my back garagage.. allyou need to do is bolt that on.. (It's work, but basically all bolt-one).. the 74+ MGBs used new crossmembers thatraised the car to the desired height.. Its just a simple replacement of the older crossmember..
For the rear, either put blocks between the axle and spring, or simpley de-arch the springs (as the car gets older, it dearches itself!11)
Ran a G-prod MGA back throught the 70's and it wrked fine
For the rear, either put blocks between the axle and spring, or simpley de-arch the springs (as the car gets older, it dearches itself!11)
Ran a G-prod MGA back throught the 70's and it wrked fine