Lower Radiator Hose

[John Turney]

With all the talk of keeping our Healeys cool, I decided to do a test to see what temperature my BN4 would reach yesterday afternoon since it was 97F. So I went for a couple of mile ride, during which the temperature rose to ~190F. :thumbsup:

So far, so good, but when I go home, I got out of the car to turn off the house alarm with the car idling. I’m at the door and hear a change in the sound of the idle, turn around to look and see a growing green puddle of coolant coming from under the car. :eeek: Ran over and shut it off. The lower radiator hose had popped off the water pump and copper heater tube.

The hose seems fine, but it doesn’t want to stay in place on the replacement water pump. As many of you know, the water pump and heater tube don’t have a ridge to hold the hose like the radiator nozzles. In fact, the water pump nozzle seems to be somewhat tapered (the wrong wat, of course). Anyone else have this problem and how did you solve it?

 

[Keoke]

Never had the problem but I have to inquire as to what type hose clamps you are using?--Keoke

 

[John Turney]

I'm using the typical worm-drive all stainless steel band clamps.

 

[Keoke]

one of those smooth aftermarket hoses they more than the ribbed original simulating type seem to exhibit this fault. Similarly an old hose may just be swollen enough so that it will not grip an more. How is the radiator cap [a 7 LB one ] and the overflow not fouled??---Keoke

 

[John Turney]

Good call! I found evidence that the overflow tubing was plugged.

I checked the cap and it's close to 7 psi. The hose is a relatively new Kevlar-reinforced hose from AH Spares.

After the silicone cures on the overflow hose nozzle (Why didn't they just use a round tube?) I'll give it another try. I have a coolant recovery tank, so the overflow has to be vacuum-tight.

Thanks!