TR6 Lousy TR-6 heater

[pdplot]

My heater puts out little or no heat. Blower motor works fine. Valve seems ok.Is this typical of TR heaters or do I have a problem?

 

[justin_mercier]

Well, for one the heaters on TR6s are real bad in general in actual cold weather, and the inability to blow anything but cold air out the eyeball vents is a pain as well. That said, is your heater core getting hot / are you sure that your heater valve or the pipes into and out of the core are not blocked? Even though they're anemic, they do get pretty hot under normal conditions.

Personally, when my TR6 goes back together, the heater isn't going back in, and instead the scuttle vent is being reverted to the old-style and it will just be an air vent for cooling on hot days. I'm putting seat heaters in each seat and that will be the only heat in my TR6 when I'm done.

 

[TR3TR6]

I noticed the same thing with my TR6 heater, no heat coming out under the dash. I did notice some heat out of the defrost vents which makes me think the heater core is warming up. If we get a few mild days here, I'll try to checkout whats happening.

 

[Gliderman8]

Hey guys.... the eyeball vents DO NOT carry heat from the heater!!!
The flap door on the heater box is the ONLY place that the heat comes out from.
My heater puts out LOTS of heat... check your heater valve and pipes leading into and out of the heater core to make certain they are not blocked. Have you checked the heater core to make sure it is not blocked?
Also check the small manifold that is attached to the firewall to be sure it is not blocked. Lastly, have you checked your thermostat?
You should get heat and lots of it.


edit: one additonal thing to check... the riser pipe on the engine block where the heater valve is connected to.... If all else fails, you might remove the pipe and make sure it is free flowing as well.

 

[DougF]

My heater isn't too bad. It doesn't compare to my daily driver, but compared to my TR3, it's a virtual inferno.

 

[HerronScott]

My TR4A's heat was decent (same heater as the TR6) but I always thought my friend's 1969 TR6 was warmer due to better seals to the soft top at the windows and better seals for the fresh air ducts to keep the cold air out.

Scott

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

First thing to check is to manually operate your heater valve to make sure that the cable is fully opening the valve. I find alot of the valves hang a little bit before being fully open.

Second thing to check is your thermostat. If you are running a 165 thermo, you might want to consider moving up to a 185 for example.

The heater in my 6 puts out more than adequate heat.

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd

 

[dougstr6]

The heater in my six can belt out fierce heat, sometimes it feels like I'll end up with 1st degree burns on my right foot!

The TR6 heating unit's down fall is the basic footwell flapper / defroster options aren't up to modern systems.

I assume you have the factory type diaphram heater valve, I would look closely as to whether it has twisted in the block or the cable has slipped in the clamp and is simply failing to open fully.

Justin: I can see where pulling the heater and plumbing out of your car would short track the major resto your into. But that heater can be real handy for early season / fall drives -just to keep the windscreen fog free. Even in the summer I've used the defroster when caught out in my ride on one of those humid all day rains.

 

[Brosky]

My heater blows out heat and hot air from the defrosters like crazy. After you check the valve and thermostat, you need to make sure the core isn't blocked up. These cars were always known for have great heaters.

Check out the rebuild process here: Broskey Heater Case Rebuild

 

[Musicman]

I too have no problem with heat in my TR-6. I usually don't even have to use the blower motor to force heat into the cabin. Most times I end up balancing out the heat with a little fresh air from the dash vents.

Dave

 

[TR6oldtimer]

Ditto on the heaters in the 4 and the 6. I drove a TR4 through a winter in Saratoga Springs, NY with no problem from the lack of heat (once I put in a 180 thermostat). My TR6 has always put out more then enough heat to the cockpit and the defrosters.

If yours is not doing this, then there is a blockage somewhere in the system.

Although messy, it is easy enough to check for heater core flow from the engine compartment, as it is also easy enough to determine if your heater valve is working properly. Also, heater water flow is commonly blocked at the heater control valve or in the return plumbing to the pump.

The bottom line is keeping the car warm in the winter was never a problem, keeping it dry, well that is another challenge.

 

[Brosky]

Dry is another issue, Ray!!

Whatever you do, please do NOT force any higher pressure through the core that is over 15-16lbs or you may rupture the core or end tanks and that will not be pretty to cleanup or fix.

 

[Gliderman8]

Thanks to BobbyD's website, I replaced my original heater valve with the one shown. I have no regrets as it works MUCH BETTER. It is smooth to operate and controls the hot water flow more evenly. I went one step further and removed the small detent ball in the neck of the heater control cable. Now there are no "stops" and I have infinite control.
See BobbyD's site.

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

This could be part of your problem as well.....

That is what my bulkhead heater hose connection looked like when I did my resto three years ago.

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd

 

[Brosky]

Yes, that might lead to a few problems.....

 

[hondo402000]

also make sure your blower motor is not running backwards, I wired mine backwards and little to no heat until I figured the fan was running backwards, reversed the wires and more heat than I can stand

Honod

 

[Darrell_Walker]

Here is the link to BobbyD's page:

https://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/HeaterValve.htm

Looks like a good solution, but I haven't yet found anyplace listing the valve, except for one Scout site that has them for $100.

 

[Gliderman8]

Here is the link to BobbyD's page:

https://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/HeaterValve.htm

Looks like a good solution, but I haven't yet found anyplace listing the valve, except for one Scout site that has them for $100.

I bought mine last year and paid $34... keep looking you will find one for a lot less than $100.
Have you tried your FLAPS?

 

[DrEntropy]

ISTR, Ford F-150 of the the mid 60's had a similar valve. In-line and cable controlled.

 

[dougstr6]

That alternative valve looks like the AMC style item that can be used as a replacement.

While it is smoother in operation than the Brit item, it has its own quirks and has been known to shear off if over stressed.