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Loosening the tie rod jamb nut

drooartz

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How do I get this nut loose? I've got a couple big wrenches and just couldn't get it to budge. I need to keep this nut, since I'll need to reuse it with the new tie rods and tie rod ends.

One thought is to cut the tie rod and put the tie rod end in my vise so I can get a better grip on it. All I need to save is the nut, as I've got new tie rods and ends.

Thoughts?
 
BFH?

Probably frowned upon but hitting the end of the wrench with a hammer to shock it loose?
 
Pneumatic impact wrench. They are not as expensive as you think. Sears usually has a good deal and Harbor frieght always does.
 
Ofcalipka said:
Pneumatic impact wrench. They are not as expensive as you think. Sears usually has a good deal and Harbor frieght always does.
I've got an impact wrench -- how would I get a socket on that nut, as there's no way I can see to get a conventional socket on it (tie rod end on one side, tie rod on the other).

How much heat would I use? Should the nut be glowing?
 
Wait, if you are replacing the inner tie rod ends, then the rack will need to come out of the car anyway.
 
have you tried a pipe on the wrench?

Otherwise, yes, glowing is good, but, I've had good results with just my propane plumbing torch

I heat till it seems hot enough

then touch a candle to the joint - wax wicks into the threads and lubricates them

then throw water on the nut to quickly cool - this will help break the seal

Otherwise, nothing wrong with cutting the tie rod, my only fear is that you will be making a bigger problem trying to get the cut piece out of the steering rack
 
I've got #14 and #18, tie rod and tie rod end. So I need to pull the entire rack to get this done?

I'm not even sure that the tie rod itself is bad, just that I was concerned about getting that nut off, thinking I might have to cut the tie rod itself. If the tie rods are okay, I suppose I can just leave them.

SPM-030.gif
 
If there is no looseness in that inner tie rod, then I wouldn't replace it. It is a major pain to get that thing apart. So... can you feel it clicking as you pull it in and out?
 
Drew, I just went through all this about a week or so ago. The heat was the way to go. Without it there would have been a lot of grunts and growns but getting no where. I carefully directed the heat not so much on the nut but the tie-rod end body where the internal threads are at. Just a little heat did it for me to get her free.
 
I'll check the tie rod tonight and report back. I'm hoping it's fine!

Thanks for the tips on how to properly direct and use the heat. I'll try that and the candle trick and see what I get.
 
Out here in the midwest we don't want to confuse anyone so its known only as a "Flame Wrench"!
Never tryed the candle trick, usually just incinerate some oil from a pump oil can but you definatly need a little lube since rust and heat sometimes cause treads to gaul. Don't forget to keep track of how many turns you make on the jam nut or you will end up with a steering wheel that isn't centered.
KA
 
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