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Looking for input on my '60 Bugeye project

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TexBug

TexBug

Freshman Member
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Hi folks,

New guy here, just posted intro in "New Member Introductions" to get the formalities out of the way... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Ok, here's where I'm at. I need to get my plan of attack mapped out so I can get moving on this project. I've got a box stock, Lucas-cursed, 948cc under-powered, '60 Bugeye that I'm not afraid to cut up a little (but I'd rather not) and my wife is behind me. I want to do this once, and do it right. I don't mind spending a few bucks, but can't/won't do so frivolously (i.e. I'll do forced induction, but only if I have to). I've got good tools and feel I can do much of the work myself. Plus, I have no fear of getting dirty... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I've laid out my plan to date below. I'm not looking for exact recommendations on each data point, but rather input as to the overall concept as a whole. I'm not worried about "Use Widget #1234" advise so much as input like "A warm 1275 just isn't up to what you want". I'm looking for holes in my plan more so than exact recommendations. Ya'll tell me if I'm just off here.

Thanks in advance for input. As I get up to speed on how these little devils go together and what fits what and where, I'll be sure to pass on any wisdom others have shared with me.

And without further adieu, on with the show:

My experience:
-Restored a '66 Mustang (6 cylinder, stayed original)
-Hot rodded a '67 Mustang (warm 302, C4, nitrous)
-Kept a '69 Bonneville cycle running
-Modded a '88 Ford 1/2 ton 2WD into a lifted "Pre-Runner"
-Hot rodded a '82 Mustang (warm 302, T5, suspension)
-Kept a '65 Chevy K10 4x4 running (350, 4 speed, 35"'s)
-Hot rodded a '84 Mustang (killer 351W, C6, blower, nitrous, narrowed 9" rear, 'glass front end, 8 point cage)

My skills:
-I don't do body work or paint
-Haven't welded since high school (over 15 years ago) and wasn't good at it then
-Can do light fabrication
-Solid 12v electrical skills
-Ok with suspension setup
-Comfortable with all mechanical work (i.e. rebuilding engines)
-Hate carb tuning
-Can't jet a carb to save my life
-Seriously, carbs remain black magic and voodoo to me. I understand how and why they work, but they hate me. All of them. No kidding. Cars, trucks, bikes, tractors, mowers, weed-eaters, it doesn't matter. If it carburets, it's evil in my book.

Resources:
-3 car garage (4 motorcycles and work bench in 2 bays, 1 bay for the Bugeye)
-2 7' high tool chests with 20 years of accumulated mechanic tools
-Jacks, stands, creepers, wheels dollys, lights & stands, engine stand
-Small drill press and bench grinder
-Understanding wife

Budget:
-$10,000 has been "wife approved". If I come in within 10-20% or so I should be ok, any more and I might be sleeping on the couch. It's a comfortable couch though... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Timeframe:
-Shooting for competition by Spring 2008

Parameters:
-Reliability, needs to be up to a 450 mile day on back roads
-Performance, must be able to survive in Dallas traffic (stop quick, accelerate, etc)
-70-75mph highway "cruising speed"
-Stock or better ride quality (at the expense of ultimate handling)
-Stock, classic "Bugeye" appearance (no scoops, fins, 22" bling-bling, etc)
-Being built as a modded "keeper", so permanent mods ok, factory conformity unimportant

What I've short-listed (but open to change):
-1275 engine
-Aluminum head, port matched
-Roller rockers
-Webber side-draft carb and intake
-Electronic ignition
-Header
-Custom exhaust, diameter size TBD
-Free-flowing muffler
-Electric fan(s)
-Disk brakes
-5 speed (Datsun 210 kit looks promising)
-Minilite type wheels (ie non-wire or original steel), 4-lug or knock-off
-Shock kit
-All new rubber, gaskets, etc
-Replace, refurbish all chrome
-Retain heater setup
-Carpet kit
-Custom leather covering of stock seats door panels
-Fill in hole cut long ago for radio in dash
-All new wiring, fuse block, etc
-Upgrade lighting (I think I've seen halogen bulbs for the stock fixtures)
-Hidden stereo head unit driving 2 6"x9"'s in truck area
-Filled antenna hole as we're a 100% XM radio household (Dallas radio stinks)
-No bumpers
-Flip forward hood kit
-Close to original light blue paint

Still up in the air:
-Details of exactly what brand/model/part of each piece
-All new gauges or recondition/replace stock (I've always used AutoMeter in the past)
-Possible custom dash
-Internal engine setup (cam, bore, etc)
-Supercharger, turbo, or naturally aspirated
 
Welcome to the forum.
If I had Carburitis, Id surely stick with the SU carbs. They are simple and straight forward. Not really a issue over time. Id also skip the aluminum head and pick one up from Mini-Mania. They sell Longman heads. And I would stick to the standard points and condenser on a centrifical distibutor. The KISS principal. Just my 2 cents.
 
If I was going to replace my SU I would probably go with the down daft version. Easier than the side drafts to tune, from what I have been told. I used a Crane electronic ignition and have been very happy with it and I Have the Nippodenso starter in and have been real happy with that. I rewired a custom setup with a Painless wire kit from Summitt racing, It is working well and I changed over to a spin on oil filter to make changes a bit easier. And now it is Neg ground. And I did an alternator conversion too. Other than that a pretty basic 948 drum brake car. Lots of fun. Enjoy yourself and take lots of pics along the way.
 
Welcome aboard, you're definitely in the right place. That list looks pretty comprehensive to me. A number of folks here have done the 1275/5-speed swap into a Bugeye, and all seem happy with it (I'm contemplating it as well for my stock Bugeye). I've been told that a warmed up 1275 should be capable of 80hp and still be easily drivable. In the light Bugeye, that should be plenty.

Also, the SU setup seems to be popular here--easy to set up, and plenty functional for street levels of power. Custom dash could be really cool, and it would preserve the original if you ever wanted to go back.

I'm a fan of keeping the modifications reversible in case you ever want to go back to stock in the future. That's the nice thing with the 1275 swap--pretty much just a drop in, no cutting required. Same for the most part with the front disk conversion. You can pretty much buy a latter Spridget and slide the entire drivetrain/brakes/etc right into the car. Find you a rusty but running donor and go to town.

And where are the pictures? We like pictures! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Your list looks pretty good for what your expectaions are.
With a 10K budget, you should be more than fine. I can do 5 Sprites for that $$. (I have probably done 7 for that much money /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
The hot 1275 is great for local traffic, coupled to a 5 speed makes a great 80 mph all day highway cruiser.
I have a Weber side draft, if carbs don't like you, you don't want a Weber. Consider a single 1.75 HIF 44 SU instead. Super simple, no jet to change but I'm sure you can loosen 1 screw and change a needle if you want to tweak it a little. Webers are like children, real pains until you set them straight. But once set up, they are trouble free.
The side draft blows the down draft out of the water on an A series engine. I have heard that alum heads are troublesome but I have no direct expierience with aluminum heads, just repeating what I have heard.
Stay away from the supercharger, way more trouble than it's worth especially on a 1275. Roller rockers aren't worth the money unless you plan on constant 8,000 rpm running.
And Peter C's shox are the best thing on a Sprite.
He rebuilds the originals to better than new and can do upgrades to them to suit your liking. I have one Midget with tube shocks, it doesn't handle as well as the stock shocks but the ride is better on the bumpy roads.
I have also done the hidden antenea and speaker box in my Bugeye with no cutting and nobody can tell it's a speaker box on the back shelf and I can still get into the boot.
Consider a local upholstry shop for the leather seats and carpet. I do my own carpet and it comes out much better than any of the *kits* they sell and it costs about $40 to do it.
 
That supercharger will eat about a 1/3 of your budget, a 1275 alone will do more for the hp/$ ratio. Agree with Spritenut 100% on the upholstery, local shop repadded and new vinyl for mine @ $50 each, perfect stitching and all.
I noticed an alternator wasn't on the list, forgive me if I'm wrong but a 948 may have a generator/dynamo, unless that has already been switched, and I hope it has, that may need to be added also. Just thinking aloud on the electrical fan and it's power requirement along with electronic ignition.
That sounds like a lot of fun, and the one priceless resource you have is the understanding wife.
 
Do you have a vision or what. Where you are going is where I've been headed for 25 yrs. The 1275 and a five speed with a good 1275 will run 75 to 80 with few problems. Start looking for the five speed now because they keep getting harder to find. I'd sugest scrapping a later sprite or midget to get the 1275 and a lot of the other parts you will need. Good luck on the project and keep in touch.
 
I must reiterate the alt conversion. Makes the halogen conversion (use the glass hella's) shine great.

Also -- I imagine in the big D - an Oil coller wold help out greatly.

Good luck.

George
 
Welcome, I'm currently on a simaler path but I'm going to use a Suzuki Swift DOHC motor and a Samuri Transmission. The motor looks like a lotus twin cam and is very peppy, I am going to modify the stock intake and use the fuel injection. The car is for my wife, so I don't want her to have to fiddle with the choke and mess with running problems. She wants a reliable classic she can drive to work every day.

Good luck with your project.
 
I don't pretend to be a Sprite expert, but I do know a bit about planning projects. My main suggestion in that regard is to spend some time planning out the timing and costs. Best way is to put it all into an Excel spreadsheet. Go into as much detail as possible--don't forget small parts, new tools, and so on. This way you will know, before you begin, whether the whole thing makes sense economically. Also, put together a rough schedule, to give yourself an plan of what has to be done in what order. When you do this, you'll find out fast whether it will get done in a sensible amount of time, or if something is going to be a bottleneck. Probably a good afternoon of work, but, I think, well worth it.

It does sound like a fun project, though. I wish I had time to undertake something like that.
 
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