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GT6 Looking for a GT6 and some advice.

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Juan

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Hello! A few of you mightve read my introductory post in Free for All, But incase you didnt im looking for a GT6+. Prefferably a mkII.

But first I have a few questions for the triumph gurus /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Ive been trying to read up on gt6s, and common problems to the body and engine that I should avoid when trying to find one. For you ex, or current gt6 owners,

What advice could you give me to avoid mistakes most buyers make when buying one?

What problems on a GT6 should I just walk away from?
 
Juan, most things are common with the Spitfire, so this is a plus as parts are easy to find. The rear end set up in the GT6+ is a little different with the rubber donuts, so make sure that the rear part of the frame is in good shape. The rest is floors in the seating area and under the gas tank, plus the battery box is where most rust starts and works down to the floors. Wayne
 
Juan, the early GT6 has the same rear suspension set-up as the early Spitfire. Oops, I see that you are looking for a MkII. Yeah, it has that rotoflex suspension. Good luck in your search. T.T.
 
Excellent, beautiful cars. I miss mine. Watch for rust (everywhere), engine thrust washers, transmission issues, and diffs. Some diffs are hard to come by (3.27:1 IIRC), transmissions wear (although there are fixes available), engine thrust washers fall out. There's lots of info and buyers guides on the web, and tons of knowledgeable and helpful people here and on the GT6 and Spitfire Board https://members.boardhost.com/GT6-Spitfire/ . Good luck - you'll have fun /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
Here's my 2c worth:

1) if you are not fluent with GT6 restoration, please pay someone who is to thoroughly inspect the car out before you purchase it. This will make your GT6 experience an infinitely happier one;

2) Sales venues: EBay (but be sure to observe the above advice) Also, see this website for a good rundown of sales venues:
https://teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/triumphlinks.htm

3) Purchase the best example your budget will allow.

Good luck, let us know how it goes!
 
Welling being someone that bought one a year ago somethings to look for and think about are as follows.

What price are you wanting to spend?
If $2000 you will have some work ahead of you. If $5000 most of the car should be very solid. Price will determine some of the issues you will run into.

When was the last time the car was run on the streets? If 5 years ago then plan on new brakes and clutch systems. (hydrolics) Plan on some other new rubber parts. Plan on rebuilding the carbs.

If I did it again I would find one with a better body and do some of the engine work. It is in my humble opition to fix an engine then it is to do the body work.

My interior was very good, all redone but the dash. But the floors are shot, the battery box is a joke and the rear leaf spring and shocks were shot. As well as all the hydrolics. Then when I looked further into the car there was alot of body work done at some point that I wasn't able to see or ask about. I wish I had someone look it over for me before hand.

I would say you can get a very nice car for $4500 with knowing you will have to maintain it and do some work on it. For $6000 you should get one that has been reworked pretty well.

Ebay isn't a bad place to find them but there will always be some suprises when you get the car home. I bought mine over ebay and talked with the owner as well before buying the car and thought I asked all the right questions but I missed some. But for what I paid, I am not out that much and did ok on the car. I was just hoping I would do better.

If you want to talk more email me and then I can give you a phone number to contact me at. Good luck on the search. You have one thing right I feel, go for the markII, I think it is the best model year for the gt6. Tom
 
Okay -- I've said it before, but: If you can find a local club (TRs or all Brit) it can be a good place for advice and leads on cars for sale. Many people wait until they have bought an LBC before they join their local club -- since you're already consulting this forum you're obviously being smarter about this than 'most people'.
 
Juan,
Sorry that I have very little info on the venerable GT6, but my two cents worth echos one of the other posts: put all of your money into a solid body and frame. EVERYTHNG else becomes a labour of love. Unless you are an experienced bodyman, or have very deep pockets, you will regret buying a car that needs any rust repairs. I bought my TR6 strictly for the body and frame. Everything else was rebuilt or replaced, and I have a very solid car. Remember this, there is no such thing as a LITTLE rust problem on a British car. If you can see it, it is everywhere.

Bill
 
[ QUOTE ]
Remember this, there is no such thing as a LITTLE rust problem on a British car. If you can see it, it is everywhere.

[/ QUOTE ]

And sometimes even if you can't see it, it's everywhere! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nopity.gif
 
Cool, Thanks for all of your help. So what I should look for primaraly in a gt6 is a strong and rustfree (hopefully) body.

But my main concern now is to find a local club, Ill be moving down to Miami Florida in January, So when Im all set up ill look for an active club. By chance, does anyone know of an active club in south Florida?
 
Juan,

I don't have any specific advice for you regarding a GT6, but I suggest you contact Ron McLeod at McLeod's British Cars. The number is 501-851-3296. He's located near Exit 142 on I-40 (toward Conway from LR). He's been in the British car business many years and may know someone selling the car you're interested in.
 
One point about GT6s: narrow down what model you want, and whether you want to deal with the rotoflex. The Mk I and + are much better looking than the horned Mk III. The MK III (late model with non-rotoflex) really is good, but down on power. If you can find one with overdrive -- no matter the model -- in good shape, buy it.

I did the eBay route also for a GT6 Mk III. Paid too much, and it came with too many surprises, but I am thrilled everytime I drive it.

Just like all my other TRs, it takes a lot of maintenance.

Steve
 
Juan,

Don't know if you noticed but this ad ran in the Democrat-Gazette the last week or so:

TRIUMPH 1970 GT-6, 6 cylinder, runs great, great restorers car, $2,700 obo. Call 501-217-9339.
 
Juan,

All of the advice is good. Body parts are cheap, body WORK is not. Believe it or not, there are plenty of rust free to low rust GT6+s to be found. It is fair to assume that if the car comes from rust free areas (southwest US, etc.) then it may be rust free. Check with the seller about the history. (If the seller says he's the original owner HANG UP THE PHONE!!!) The good news is that GT6's are stone simple cars. If the sheet metal is good the mechanicals are cheap and plentiful. Check the following site for plenty more input. https://members.boardhost.com/GT6-Spitfire/?968006626

How do I know. Got one!!!
 
[ QUOTE ]
Aha! Im gonna give that fellow a ring on the telephone.

Thank you all for your help!

[/ QUOTE ]

<font color="red"> WATCH OUT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! </font> /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonono.gif

"A great restorers car" often translates into "looks great, lots of bondo and hidden rust". /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

If you are in Florida, please contact me by e-mail and I will tell you one guy NOT to buy a car from in Florida. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonod.gif
 
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