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I have currently been mulling over purchasing an MG or a TR6, having always loved the look, the lines, the absolute originality of design.Call it a mid-life crisis, bucket list item, or just plain desire but the thought has been with me for a long time.What I wish to know, if you can assist, is what would I be looking for while inspecting one of these fine cars?Do they come with disc brakes, or drums?If drum brakes, is there any 'kit' or the ability to transfer the braking system over to disc?Not sure which models have the overdrive(unless they state it), so that to brings about a want in the car.Some do not come with the wire rims; so would be curious as to what wire rims would be the best for them, as well as what tires would be the preferred make and size to have the performance a vehicle like these deserves.I am also a true Canadian driver, which means all seasons. so winter tires; what would be recommended for these vehicles?As you can tell, I am literally studying what is required, what to look for, what I should be listening for on a test drive, etc.I have looked at a few, and wonder if you could give some information as to the overdrive asked about, and any other help, if it is at all possible.I would be extremely appreciative of your assistance, and thank you. My list, with what info I have, is here:1969 MG/MGC 6 cyl. (Overdrive?)1970 MGB/GT Is this a 6 cylinder? Overdrive?1975 MG/MGB Roadster Is it a 6 Cyl.? Overdrive?1974 MG MGB/GT Cylinders? Overdrive?Most respectively, LNL
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General MG Looking at MGs
- Thread starter LNL
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Sopwith_Camel
Jedi Knight
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ok thats a long list
I would not recommend wire wheels for winter driving. and yes, I drive mine in the snow I have two sets of rims.
all "B"s and "B-GT"s are 4 Cylinders unless they are the V8 and they will be labeled that way.
the "C" and "C-GT" from 67 to 69 are the 6 cylinder cars. and can be spotted by the extra bulge on the hood.
Over drive is an optional extra but should be mentioned in any ad.
I believe they all came from the factory with front discs and rear drums. which is fine for modern traffic. but rear disc conversion kits are available.
if you can find one with the optional oil cooler that would be good.
Here is a question for the rest of the gang do the 70s Bs have the air injection system that the midgets had?
I would not recommend wire wheels for winter driving. and yes, I drive mine in the snow I have two sets of rims.
all "B"s and "B-GT"s are 4 Cylinders unless they are the V8 and they will be labeled that way.
the "C" and "C-GT" from 67 to 69 are the 6 cylinder cars. and can be spotted by the extra bulge on the hood.
Over drive is an optional extra but should be mentioned in any ad.
I believe they all came from the factory with front discs and rear drums. which is fine for modern traffic. but rear disc conversion kits are available.
if you can find one with the optional oil cooler that would be good.
Here is a question for the rest of the gang do the 70s Bs have the air injection system that the midgets had?
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Good info there, although I'm not sure the oil cooler is a necessity in Toronto. Lots of debate fodder there...
As for the air injection (emission control) system, those began in '68, I believe.
Oh, and welcome to the party, LNL! And good luck with your search.
Mickey
Sopwith_Camel
Jedi Knight
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in that case if you can find one where it has been professionally removed you will get some horses back.
As for the oil cooler. good cooling is always a plus, and you will be driving it on the hotest days of the summer. it was over 30c here and I'm much further north.
rick_ingram
Yoda
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There is very little horsepower lost with the emissions equipment used on the MG. Removal of the equipment may provide an increase of 2bhp or so. I doubt one would feel this in the seat.
Sopwith_Camel
Jedi Knight
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was it more on the midget 1275 ? its one less belt to deal with if nothing else.
Online
Seems to me you need to spend some time researching the cars you are interested in. The archives here should be a help, as is a lot of browsing through eBay. You can learn a lot from ads. Also, you can just Google them.
Here's another idea, one I've done a few times: when you've sorted through the options and have found one or two types of cars you like, buy a Haynes manual for each of them. It will cost only about $15-$20 each and you'll get a lot of detailed info on them.
If you're starting without a lot of information, I'd probably suggest a STOCK MGB or TR6. There are plenty of them around, they're not expensive, parts are cheap, and they're modern enough to drive on a freeway or use like a real car. (Unlike my MG TD, for example.) You'll have fun with them. Watch out for rust, avoid heavily modified cars, especially engine swaps. Remember that cosmetic restoration is at least as expensive as mechanical, so make sure the car looks decent, not just runs well. Forget about "mileage" (which is meaningless in a 50-year-old car, which probably has had three engines, five transmissions, two speedometers, and eighteen brake jobs), and focus on condition. Approach it as you would any other type of used car--a couple hundred bucks for a pre-purchase inspection is worth it, if you are unsure of your ability to evaluate a car yourself.
Here's another idea, one I've done a few times: when you've sorted through the options and have found one or two types of cars you like, buy a Haynes manual for each of them. It will cost only about $15-$20 each and you'll get a lot of detailed info on them.
If you're starting without a lot of information, I'd probably suggest a STOCK MGB or TR6. There are plenty of them around, they're not expensive, parts are cheap, and they're modern enough to drive on a freeway or use like a real car. (Unlike my MG TD, for example.) You'll have fun with them. Watch out for rust, avoid heavily modified cars, especially engine swaps. Remember that cosmetic restoration is at least as expensive as mechanical, so make sure the car looks decent, not just runs well. Forget about "mileage" (which is meaningless in a 50-year-old car, which probably has had three engines, five transmissions, two speedometers, and eighteen brake jobs), and focus on condition. Approach it as you would any other type of used car--a couple hundred bucks for a pre-purchase inspection is worth it, if you are unsure of your ability to evaluate a car yourself.
Sopwith_Camel
Jedi Knight
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yes Rust is you main enemy. buy the best chassis you can, take a magnet with you and check the sills/rockers.
doing a brake job or a new exhaust is easy, cutting out and replacing the door bottoms are a big job.
and make sure doors shut well convertibles can sag in the middle.
read up on wikipida, hemmings , mg enthusiast magazine about the cars your interested in.
doing a brake job or a new exhaust is easy, cutting out and replacing the door bottoms are a big job.
and make sure doors shut well convertibles can sag in the middle.
read up on wikipida, hemmings , mg enthusiast magazine about the cars your interested in.
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Congrats and welcome! an MG or a Triumph is a bold move for Toronto - not just for the rust but for the heat and ground clearance.
That said, there are lots of choices out there. One of the best things you can do is join a club locally - not just for expertise but, because they typically have the more realistically priced cars for sale. (I find Canadians typically have an over inflated sense of what these things are worth)
MG Car CLub: https://www.mgtoronto.com/
Toronto Triumph Club: https://www.torontotriumph.com/
British Saloon Car Club of Canada: https://www.bsccoc.ca/ (one of the biggest and widest clubs)
Also, British Car Day is on the 20th of this month in Oakville - https://www.torontotriumph.com/BCD/ - the largest one day British Car Show in North America. It is worth attending, partly because lots of cars will be for sale, partly because there will be lots of options and especially because there will be lots of advice.
I might also invite you to consider two other options. 1. buy an MG or Triumph and get a winter beater - these British cars rust badly at the best of times and will be a struggle to keep warm. Beaters don`t cost a lot and will save the `nice`car. Also, there are a number of other saloon options out there - Austin/ Morris/ Vauxhall etc. that are all hardtops, not a sexy but good solid options for year round use.
BTW where abouts are you in the city? I am in Etobicoke
That said, there are lots of choices out there. One of the best things you can do is join a club locally - not just for expertise but, because they typically have the more realistically priced cars for sale. (I find Canadians typically have an over inflated sense of what these things are worth)
MG Car CLub: https://www.mgtoronto.com/
Toronto Triumph Club: https://www.torontotriumph.com/
British Saloon Car Club of Canada: https://www.bsccoc.ca/ (one of the biggest and widest clubs)
Also, British Car Day is on the 20th of this month in Oakville - https://www.torontotriumph.com/BCD/ - the largest one day British Car Show in North America. It is worth attending, partly because lots of cars will be for sale, partly because there will be lots of options and especially because there will be lots of advice.
I might also invite you to consider two other options. 1. buy an MG or Triumph and get a winter beater - these British cars rust badly at the best of times and will be a struggle to keep warm. Beaters don`t cost a lot and will save the `nice`car. Also, there are a number of other saloon options out there - Austin/ Morris/ Vauxhall etc. that are all hardtops, not a sexy but good solid options for year round use.
BTW where abouts are you in the city? I am in Etobicoke
Sopwith_Camel
Jedi Knight
Offline
I think JPSmit has a great point go to the british car day. and ask owners if you can sit in the cars that you are considering.
yes rust is a major issue for these as a winter car.
but on the really cold days the metal door latches will freeze up solid. so you will be off the road. its a safety feature.
yes rust is a major issue for these as a winter car.
but on the really cold days the metal door latches will freeze up solid. so you will be off the road. its a safety feature.