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TR2/3/3A Lockeed Master Cylinder Adapters

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R

Redoakboo

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I am starting to fill the brake system on the '54 TR-2 I am restoring. The master cylinder has a Adapter for the clutch line. The fitting on the brake line is to long to screw all the way into the master cylinder, leaks. Can you use the same Adapter on this line too? It looks like the adapter is set up to receive a longer fitting?

Dick
 
Disregard...I did put it back on the clutch, with nothing on the brake side. I was confused because they cross over each other. Anyway, being too long should not result in a leak. The leak would have to be something amiss with the flair on the line itself.
 
John,

I was thinking of swapping the adapter to the brake side as it seems the fitting on the brake side is about 1/2" longer? I am going to remove it and see how long the fitting is on the clutch side. I may just buy another adapter as when I thigthen the fitting on the brake side it bottoms out with about 1/2" thread showing.

Dick
 
Again...too long should not present a problem. It's when the nut is too short that you cannot get a good seal. If it's long, it should still be able to drive the flared cone fully into place and seal. If you still have a leak, then either the flare end or the taper in the cylinder is damaged. Even if you got another adapter, the same flared end will cause the same problem...
 
CJD said:
Again...too long should not present a problem. It's when the nut is too short that you cannot get a good seal. If it's long, it should still be able to drive the flared cone fully into place and seal. If you still have a leak, then either the flare end or the taper in the cylinder is damaged. Even if you got another adapter, the same flared end will cause the same problem...
Click to expand...

The flared end looks O.K.? Maybe I should just replace the brake line. I have a flare tool and there is enough line to re-flare it but, it puts a different flare on the end, rather then like the one that is on it.
 
Is there a chance there is a burr on the cone inside the MC coupling?

Another issue I ran into a lot is some of my b-nuts had been over tightened, so the bell on the nut spread out past the flare on the tube. The result is they would jam in the female side before the flare came up solid against the cone. It should be obvious studying the b-nut. For some I could just grind a bit off the nut, but others had to be replaced.
 
I found a crack in the nut where it was leaking. Guess I am going to have to try and find a new line? I don't think the line is long enough to cut the flare off and try to fit a new nut? I have not found that line in any of the catalogs yet. I am going to call Roaster Factory tomorrow.

Dick
 
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