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Linseed Oil?

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M_Pied_Lourd

M_Pied_Lourd

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Hi Guys,

Question for you.

I am starting to remove the paint from my TR3A in preperation for paint at some time in the next couple of months. I am removing the paint in order to get a better idea of the condition of the body and panels on this old vintage race car of mine. I also wanted to start on welding in some patches/repairs where need be before sending it out for paint.

So, here is the question. I am wanting to prevent my freshly cleaned panels from flash rusting....I don't want to prime the car as I want the guys that are painting the car to do that..

I know that there is some commercial poduct out there to treat bare metal so that it doesn't flash rust that is also easily removeable when it comes time to paint the car. I was talking to an old car guy today and he suggested that I not bother with the commercial stuff and just use linseed oil....

Has anyone ever heard of this recommendation before.

Looking forward to hearing what you think.

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
 
I have not heard of this but in a way it makes sense. I believe that for years linseed oil was the base for a number of common paints. If you try this there are a couple of things to keep in mind. First is that there is linseed oil and boiled linseed oil. Boiled linseed oil will dry and form a varnish-like coating which will stay a bit tacky. The raw linseed oil will stay wet. I don't know which is better for this application but the two oils behave quite differently.

Another important thing to keep in mind is safety. If I remember correctly, linseed oil is one of the oils known for spontaneous combustion. I don't think this was a problem with the oil itself but was a problem when oily rags are left wadded up in a bucket.

However, a layer of etch primer or epoxy primer applied at home would still let your body guys do their thing while providing good protection.
 
Like Doug says, MPL,even boiled linseed oil can be slooow to dry. Humidity will definitly slow down the drying process.
I've used it on wood and it does a good job of waterproofing and bringing out the grain in wood after many coats hand rubbed into the wood, drying between each application.
If you want a clear thin sealer for metal, Penetrol works good.
You can spray it or wipe it on. You can thin it even more that it already is with paint thinner, It does dry hard so it'll have to be sanded, steel wooled or buffed off.
I use it to weather proof my TR6 both underneath and in the hollows.
 
Check with the paintshop where you plan to have the car painted. It's possible they would have to remove the linseed oil first and that might be difficult. I'm thinking that linseed (or other) protection may interfere with the compatibility of the final paints they want to use.

If the final paint job krinkles of bubbles - well you don't want that !
 
I sure wouldn't use linseed oil for all of the above reasons. When I bought my car I got a bunch of new body panels with it. I was finishing up another car so everything was put into storage. I used a commercial product but can't remember the name of it. Was not all that expensive and I put it on with a rag. As I recall even with that on the parts there was some flash rust here and there but not a major problem.

Tinkerman
 
:iagree:

Even a flash coat of spray-bomb primer would be better.

Any "oil" on a surface to be painted is ASKING for trouble, IMO.
 
Hello Doug. Your question begs for another. That is, I feel you are concerned about the minor flash rust that appears on freshly prepared steel surfaces. Right?

I have been using <span style="font-weight: bold">DX-679</span> "metal prep" or similar products for this purpose for years. Simple and cheap, they are based on a weak solution of phosphoric acid. When the metal (steel not alloy) surface is clean and bright you use a sprayer bottle and wet down the surface.

Details Here
 
DrEntropy said:
:iagree:

Even a flash coat of spray-bomb primer would be better.

Any "oil" on a surface to be painted is ASKING for trouble, IMO.
Click to expand...

That's what I do Doc, I shoot a thin layer of self etching primer from a rattle can. I buy it at Advance Auto.
 
I use cheap rattle can paint over bare metal for protection, then when the time comes, most of it wipes off with lacquer thinner, the rest with sanding. I have also used Pickle-X, a phosphoric acid and polymer based protective layer that works well as long as you do not handle the metal with bare hands or get it wet.
 
angelfj said:
Hello Doug. Your question begs for another.
Click to expand...

Sorry, not my question, the post and question belong t: M. Pied Lourd

Like the others above, I prime for protection. On my last major project I put down etch primer followed by high-build and worried about the bodywork later. This time I'm putting epoxy primer on the metal... and worrying about the bodywork later.
 
Hi Guys,

Thanks for all the replies.

Based on the advice above, a quick cover up with primer will be the direction going forward.

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
 
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