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GT6 Lifting GT6 body

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JBBgt6

JBBgt6

Freshman Member
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Hello...

I am a newbie here and expect I'll be posting some questions as I try to restore my '72 GT6. Hopefully I'll be able to offer some help someday.

Anyway, I am about to lift the body from the frame. The doors are off the car. I noticed a discussion where someone doing this to a TR4 or TR6 was given advice to reinforce the body at the doors to maintain its' shape. I am wondering if this is recommended for a coupe like the GT6 also and, how might this be done if it is needed. The last thing I want is for the body to warp or something.

Much thanks,
Jim B.
 
With the '72 and its fixed windshield surround, bracing of the door openings MIGHT not be as important as it would've been on the 1970 and earlier ones (especially if the windshield surround was removed on those earlier ones). However, much still depends on the integrity of the sill and floor area. If there's any question (i.e., if there's any significant rust in that area), then I'd at least leave the doors in place. Alternatively, a brace could be tacked across the opening...oh, and I think it's the Triumph Sports Six Club in England that sells a brace that bolts to the hinge and latch mounts.
 
Hey I have one of the 70 GT6's, are you saying there is a flex/body roll issue with this car? (not that I intend to race it) I did not know that the later models were fixed.
 
Not really a flex issue <span style="font-style: italic">per se</span>; just a note that the earlier cars (such as yours) have a windscreen frame that bolts in, being pretty much the same frame that the open Spitfire used. All in all, things are rigid enough when that's bolted in place, though!
 
Thank for the advice... I'm gonna make some braces to be safe. :smile:
Jim
 
For my 67, we had the doors removed. Two men lifted up at the roof where the doors were, while a third man lifted the rear. I, fourth person, rolled the chassis out from under it and quickly slid in two humongous tires under the body for which it could sit on. May be a 3 person job putting it back on though.

I'll let you know if we had any flexing issues when we attempt to bolt it back together.
 
For my Spitfire I made braces from pieces of 3/4" conduit. I flattened and drilled the ends.
I lift the body using a block and tackle at each end. You can buy them inexpensivly as the hoists sold to deer hunters. The ones rated for 1200# each work well.

-Tim
 
Hi Jim. Welcome. I'm rather new myself to the forum, read but don't post much. Our 70 GT6 body has been sitting 3 ft off the garage floor for the past few months. I didn't brace the door openings until right before I cut out the old floor pans. The rockers & inner sills were questionable so I wanted to maintain integrity (doors off the body). I used 1/2 angle & welded them inside, about 8 inches above the sills to allow work room. I did have the new floor pans welded in place before I cut out rockers & sills for replacement... the one step at a time principle. I was careful when cutting the braces out so all I had to do was grind the rough spots and they'll be covered by the interior trim panels.
All the glass was in ours when we lifted the body. I had 4 friends helping, a fifth (friend) would have been nice. Double check that ALL connections between the chassis & body are eliminated. Even the factory manual has missed a couple. Hint: associated with systems at the rear axle... :smile: It didn't cause problems - just took a few extra minutes with the good help standing around waiting for the 'expert' to finish his work.
 
Thanks everyone...
 
Before my TR6 was painted I used an engine hoist with an extra long arm. Now I use a buddy at the other end. The glass and everything is out so this is doable.


George
 
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