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Lift the dot stud type for tonneau cover?

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Harry_Ward

Harry_Ward

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When I acquired my 1959 TR3 the lift the dot studs were removed from the doors and dash top for the tonneau. What are the correct types for the door and dash mount. In other words do I use the lift the dot stud with the threaded end attached by the nut and washer or the self tapping screw type. I have both types in a box although they will need to be replaced. I'm trying to type fast here the site looked scary the last couple of hours.
 
SInce the doors have a wood top frame, it's screw in type for those, mine use a small washer under the stud (to protect the paint when it spins in). My dash also uses screw in across the dash but no washers.
 
Along the top of the dash, the pegs are threaded like wood screws. In an early TR (TR2, TR3 and up to 59,000 TR3A) with the curved abd glued wood insert along the top of the dash, the pegs screw through the vinyl or leather finish and into the wood. On TR3As post 60,000 and TR3Bs, the pegs thread like self tapping screws into the sheetmetal top of the bodywork. These pegs should be the short ones. Along the doors, the pegs are also short ones but are straight threads with lock washers and nuts inside the doors. On the older TRs with wood inside the tops of the doors, these would be threaded but I can't remember for sure.

Did you know that early TRs had the peg at the top of the rear dog leg quarter panel in a lower position than the later TRs. See attachment. The later TRs have this peg in line with the gap in the trim capping - up higher.
 

Attachments

  • 264141-Pegs&CoverEarlyTR3A.JPG
    264141-Pegs&CoverEarlyTR3A.JPG
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Tonneau cover and soft top peg location for a later TR3A and TR3B. See attachment.
 

Attachments

  • 264142-PegsLateTR3A.JPG
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Isn't the late dogleg picture a little (way) overstuffed on the red car? I didn't think that any capping other than the door would have any padding. The door rubber is normally covered with a thin cotton layer, then vinyl/leather stretched around it.
 
Change points may not be precise for some of these items... e.g. TS47905L has wood & woodscrew for the doors, but no wood across the top of the fascia/dash. It also has the later position for the peg by the dogleg.

You seem to have some machine screw/nut LTDs in the collection that came with the car. Of course this is what was used around the back of the cockpit but you say those are in place so perhaps some of the sheet metal holes in the doors are stripped and someone used these instead?

On th doors with wood top pieces the holes can strip but are easily renewed with matchsticks & Elmers glue.
 
I should have told you 1959 TR3A - TS54794LO pre 60 - My top frame cover lift the dot stud is as pictured in the lower location. I did not know the capping look or the stud location changed in later years so I'm glad I asked. The self threading studs in the box were so rusted I couldn't figure out if they were originally self tapping or threaded with nut. I will have to take a look and see if there is actually wood inside along the top of the dash. All I remember seeing was steel that the aluminum capping with vinyl fit over. The holes for the LTD studs appear to be all there and not stripped. Thanks to all for the info I guess you now know what is on the list of items to do for this winter.
 
[ QUOTE ]
IF I'm reading the original factory Spare Parts Catalogue correctly, the dash "scuttle panel assembly" would NOT have had the "Member, scuttle rim" (wood bracing piece) after Commission number TS12568.

[/ QUOTE ]

Andy,

Now there's a bit of translation lost, "Member, scuttle rim"
I would have never gotten that. Tmber, lumber, wood, yes, member, no way!
 
Andy - My TS 27489 LO has wood across the top of the dash.

Harry - Don't look at all the extra padding in the later peg photo. It's the position of the peg that I wanted to show. He did it that way because he liked it that way, not because it is right. In fact the capping is the same on all sidescreen TR's from the TR2 to the TR3B.
 
Don,

It was hard enough stretching the new thicker matching vinyl over that piece un-padded. I can feel the arthritis starting to form in my fingers just talking about it. As a matter of fact I unfortunately need to redo the quarter rail capping pieces as I have a twist at the bottom curve because at the time I didn't think to heat the vinyl prior to stretching. However, the last time I whacked my elbow against that piece I wished it was padded.
 
Harry -- it is a tug-of-war to get that thing covered. Actually, I think all the originals were covered in leather (as was the door capping and dash rail).

If you do a redo you might find it easier to make up a jig to hold the cap piece while you struggle with it. I also soaked the material in water (was covering in leather) and used a heat gun (gently). The capping is held to the jig by a couple of small nails thru existing holes. These pics show how the jig works:

https://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/dogleg1.JPG
https://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/dogleg2.JPG
https://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/dogleg3.JPG
https://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/dogleg4.JPG
 
[ QUOTE ]
Andy - My TS 27489 LO has wood across the top of the dash.

[/ QUOTE ]Yeah, I questioned that myself after sending the post. Could be a misinterpretation on my part or could be a misprint in the manual. And I was quickly scanning the original Bill Piggott originality book (covers TR2-6) but didn't find any information on this.

Anyone got anything later than TS 27489 LO with wood supports in the dash (scuttle) top?
 
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