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lift-a-dot studs
- Thread starter ekamm
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angelfj1
Yoda
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Eric: I am sure you refer more to the ones with the 'wood screw' ends. if so, it is helpful to be sure you have an adequate pilot hole in that hard wood. We did ours a little loose but used a tiny bit of gorilla glue injected into the hole. For the machine screw theaded ones, hand tight into nut and lock washer with a tiny dab of blue loctite does the trick! They should stay tight and not back out.
good luck
good luck
angelfj1
Yoda
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Oh, sorry. I can understand at $2.10 each you are trying to save these, but I can tell you from experience, it won't be easy.
If you have an early car, pre- TS60000, the studs will be a combination of wood-screw and machine screw. Later cars had studs with sheet-metal screws into the dash top and machine screws elsewhere.
After 50 years the studs attached with nuts are probably frozen with rust and it's unlikely they will come out with out being destroyed. If you have any that are screwed into wood try this old trick. Take a soldering iron, at least 100 watts, let it heat up and touch it to the end of the stud. The heat will be conducted through to the threaded end and sometimes will be enough to loosen the wood screw. This has worked for me when trying to take out very old door hinges in old houses.
Because of their shape, a conventional open end or box wrench may not be best. I would suggest a tool like a nut driver. You can get a set with several sized 'sockets' at Sears - not too expensive. You may have to try several size sockets until you fin one that fits and they may not all be the same. It may be that the best size is going to be metric.
good luck
If you have an early car, pre- TS60000, the studs will be a combination of wood-screw and machine screw. Later cars had studs with sheet-metal screws into the dash top and machine screws elsewhere.
After 50 years the studs attached with nuts are probably frozen with rust and it's unlikely they will come out with out being destroyed. If you have any that are screwed into wood try this old trick. Take a soldering iron, at least 100 watts, let it heat up and touch it to the end of the stud. The heat will be conducted through to the threaded end and sometimes will be enough to loosen the wood screw. This has worked for me when trying to take out very old door hinges in old houses.
Because of their shape, a conventional open end or box wrench may not be best. I would suggest a tool like a nut driver. You can get a set with several sized 'sockets' at Sears - not too expensive. You may have to try several size sockets until you fin one that fits and they may not all be the same. It may be that the best size is going to be metric.
good luck
M_Pied_Lourd
Darth Vader
Offline
Eric,
I think that I might have been trying to do the same as you at one point....
I think that you are trying to use a wrench or socket on the exterior/body side of the fastener if I am following you. Most of the ones with the threaded ends are accesible from the inside of the body (I think). You should be able to use a small wrench or socket on the nut more easily that you would on the chromed side (if that makes sence). For the screw in type (no backing nut), I just masking tape the fastener and grab it with a pair of needle nose vice grips to get it started and then turn the rest out by hand...
Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
I think that I might have been trying to do the same as you at one point....
I think that you are trying to use a wrench or socket on the exterior/body side of the fastener if I am following you. Most of the ones with the threaded ends are accesible from the inside of the body (I think). You should be able to use a small wrench or socket on the nut more easily that you would on the chromed side (if that makes sence). For the screw in type (no backing nut), I just masking tape the fastener and grab it with a pair of needle nose vice grips to get it started and then turn the rest out by hand...
Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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If there is, I've never found it. Not metric, not SAE (even the 6-point x/32 sizes), not even Whitworth!ekamm said:
I did find a 6-point SAE size that would work maybe 3 out of 5 times (sorry, don't recall the size offhand), but it takes a delicate touch to be able to feel when it starts to round and quit turning.
Thought about trying to make one; but ultimately it was easier to use an adjustable wrench (and a thin sheet of plastic to protect the paint from the wrench jaws).
Rhodyspit75
Jedi Knight
Offline
perfectfit.com lists a "lift the dot screwdriver". This may be what you need. It sells for $25. Like most one time tools a lot of money. I have made odd shaped "sockets" from hard pvc pipe. Simply find a size close to the head and heat it then force it onto the fastener and let it cool you then have a perfect tool for short term use.
Geo Hahn
Yoda
Offline
A 9mm six-point socket works fine for me -- a little slop but not enough that there is a risk of rounding it.
The 11/32 six-point can also work but is just a bit small so you can't get a really deep fit and thus risk slipping/rounding.
FWIW -- my local Ace usually has LTDs in both the machine screw and wood screw flavors in case you need a few in a hurry.
I always use washers under these -- less chance of gouging the paintwork as they tighten. A small washer is nearly invisible once the thing is in place. I do not know if they would have had washers originally.
The 11/32 six-point can also work but is just a bit small so you can't get a really deep fit and thus risk slipping/rounding.
FWIW -- my local Ace usually has LTDs in both the machine screw and wood screw flavors in case you need a few in a hurry.
I always use washers under these -- less chance of gouging the paintwork as they tighten. A small washer is nearly invisible once the thing is in place. I do not know if they would have had washers originally.
