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Leaking rear shocks

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bluemiata90

bluemiata90

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I just got finished installing rear shocks on my 61 TR3. I noticed that the one shock is leaking fluid from the pivot arm. Is there any kind of rebuild kit that would have a seal for the pivot arm or do I have to buy a new or factory rebuild shock.?
 
Factory rebuild is the only way.
 
Can I send the old one out to be rebuilt and if so, what would the name of the company be. If not, where would be the best place to get a factory rebuilt?
 
The Roadster Factory would be a good place to start. There are certainly others that do a quality job. Call them, they may have some already in stock and you just have to send in your unit for the core charge. Or, maybe not. 814-446-4491

Bill
 
You might also try Apple Hydraulics. www.applehydraulics.com

I agree, it's not possible to rebuild Armstrong lever shocks yourself.

I would suggest rebuilding both (or exhanging both, as the case may be). If one is starting to leak, the other probably isn't far behind.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Applehydraulics looks like a very reasonable company as far as prices. I'll give them a call tomorrow.
thanks
 
Had the heavy duty rebuilds done on my TR6 shocks from Apple. They also rebuilt my carb baseplates (new shafts and butterflies). They did great work, good prices, and pretty quick turnaround.
 
I've not used either company (heck - I still can't get something to hold the stupid bolt to tighten it up - wonderful design on a TR3 - thump thump thump) but many people have said they were much happier with World Wide Auto Parts in Wisconsin:

https://www.nosimport.com/?

There's a discussion in the MG forums on this and another over at the MGB Experience:

https://tinyurl.com/nh9my

Mine fortunately aren't leaking yet...

While on the subject of lever shocks my Dad always talks about when he was racing (illegally) his TD back in the 50's he and his buddies would put STP in their levers to stiffen them up. Anyone ever do this and did they notice a difference? (as if I need to make the buck-board ride of a TR3 any stiffer) /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
This reminds of of a customer we had at a Saab dealer I worked at back in the days when they had two cycle, three cylinder engines. The wagons had lever shocks in the rear, and we had a customer that came in and wanted to know if we could stiffen up the rear shocks. I told them we could, but how stiff do you want them?? He said as stiff as you can get them. I emptied the fluid that was in them and replaced it with, I think, 75wt gear oil, because that's what we used in the trannys. They would hardly move on the bench, but I installed them and took the car for a ride. It was like the wheels were directly bolted to the car. It seemed like the only suspension in the rear was the air in the tires. I told the service manager that I would problably have to re-do them with lighter oil, but he said let the customer decide. The customer drove the car, and came back and said..."PERFECT!!" /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif

So, you can definetly change the action of the shocks by changing the weight of the oil, but be careful, too heavy and they don't want to move. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif
 
Hi,

I should have mentioned earlier, note that in the NOS Imports link article about lever shocks that the shocks are actually designed to leak a little around the lever shaft. That's thought to have been done deliberately be to help keep dust out of the mechanism. And, that's why topping up the oil at regular intervals is important.

A good article on tuning lever shocks can be found at https://mywebpages.comcast.net/rhodes/shock.html

Motorcycle fork oil is a widely available non-detergent that works well and is available in varioius weights. I think the stock oil (from Moss, et al) is about 20 or 25W. 30 to 40W would be pretty stiff for a street car. 50W is about the heaviest oil I've heard of anyone using in TR rear lever shocks, and that was pretty much limited to the race track. (Front levers found on other cars might use heavier oil, due to the extra weight of engine, etc.) Don't use any oil with detergents, as that will cause foaming in the shock. *Racing* motor oil is non-detergent.

Armstrong shock dampening valves can be changed, too. Above link talks about various ways of modifying the valves. I've also heard, but not tried, swapping MGB front lever shock valves into rear shocks on TR4. Supposedly that's just about a 25% upgrade in dampening. Might be a bit heavier dampening on a TR3, which is lighter in the rear than TR4.

Also, FYI, in England both Revington TR and Cambridge Motorsport offer Armstrongs with adjustable valving. Neat, but pricey.

Finally, the rally TR4s used larger, DAS10 Armstrong shocks. One key reason was the larger oil capacity helps dissipate heat better, to help reduce or delay dampening fading that occurs when oil viscosity changes due to heat. Unfortunately, it's not a direct swap to replace the stock DAS9 with DAS10. A larger mounting bracket needs to be welded to the frame.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
I just ordered the shocks from World Wide Auto Parts this morning. They give a lifetime warrenty on the shocks, so I don't think I could go wrong. Thanks for all the help.
 
FWIW.....
I use mineral oil from the Walgreens.
75 wt oil in a shock,.......shame , shame , shame.
 
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