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later 3000 steering box question

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twigworker

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Someone has delivered a steering box/column to me for an overhaul. The problem is that all of the parts were loose in a corrugated box.:sorrow: I have everything ready to go back together but I am puzzled by one thing.

There are several slightly cupped shims, actually six, that have nearly the same ID as the OD of the sector shaft and I am not sure where to use them. I think that they go over the shaft before it is inserted into the box to provide a good working surface between the two when pressure is applied by the external adjusting screw.

The “factory” schematic of the box in the Bentley manual shows only the earlier box that does not have the roller style peg and no shims.

Does anyone know of a drawing of the parts for the later cars, or can someone answer my question about where these shims go and how they are supposed to be oriented?

Thanks in advance. Jack
 
"Shims" or a series of Belleville Springs?

I'll look for a picture...

str_007.jpg


str_008.jpg


The "springs" are stacked opposing each other, and allow for the compression of the adjusting screw to fine-tune the depth of the peg in the worm gear.
 
Precisely what I wanted to know Randy !!!

Thanks loads.:smile-new:
 
This is a timely subject, I am within days of opening up my steering box to replace all seals and had heard about those shims/springs, they must be put back in so that they are working against each other just as a spring would - as Randy says - opposing each other.

:cheers:

Bob
 
Bob, it's very hard to get these steering boxes to seal around the shaft, and as a result, I've resorted to doubling up the seals. The bore is deep enough to accomodate this, so after putting in the first seal, I use an appropriate sleeve to drive it deep enough so the second seal is flush with the bottom of the box.

Review the thread on the BJ# axle seal for some addtional tips on seals.
 
FWIW - I rebuilt my steering box maybe 5 years ago by installing a new bushing then honing it to size with a new brake hone. It took about a half hour. The only problem is the end with the splines can be slightly larger than the worn shaft. In my case it wasn't enough to make a difference and, with the 2 seals in place and filled with STP, the steering play is minimal and it doesn't leak.

I wonder if it would be possible to restore a worn shaft by somehow adding metal to it then refinishing back to size. Or covering the bushed part of its length with speedi-sleeves.
 
Just my luck

Just read your tip on the double seals Randy, a bit too late though, as I have put the box back together already. Turns out that it is not from a BJ7 but is an older box from a BN2 / 100/6 ( the car has been converted from LHD to RHD ) and it would also appear that the top paper gasket is not manufactured any more. Just as well then that I did manage to recover the existing paper gasket almost in one piece save for a few splits. I took a photo copy and then using that, I manufactured the new gasket from some gasket paper that I had. I have stuffed a short length of old stator tube up the end with an olive and nut and currently the steering shaft is stood on end without any signs of leakage. Fingers crossed.

I used Penright steering box oil and I am told that it is better than the hypoid oil and has a tendency to prevent leakage anyway.

:cheers:

Bob
 
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