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Koni Coil Over and Assorted Questions

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jjbunn

jjbunn

Jedi Knight
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I have put LBB up on jack stands and removed the wheels, so as to get a close look at the brakes and suspension. I'm not sure what I have, but it looks like the suspension has been upgraded. Also, the brake hoses appear to be relatively new.

I'd welcome comments (+ve or -ve) on the following photos: what do you see? I'm not sure what's original and what's new.

LH Front
https://farm3.static.flickr.com/2231/1642087435_7470cba3e4_o.jpg
https://farm3.static.flickr.com/2020/1642088237_5c0f2fd6a3_o.jpg

RH Front
https://farm3.static.flickr.com/2075/1642964284_8ccfeac930_o.jpg
https://farm3.static.flickr.com/2189/1642089971_0eb7975696_o.jpg

RH Rear
https://farm3.static.flickr.com/2296/1642958560_9c8d331262_o.jpg
https://farm3.static.flickr.com/2055/1642084181_c5420ece4b_o.jpg

LH Rear
https://farm3.static.flickr.com/2039/1642960372_fbf46359e9_o.jpg
https://farm3.static.flickr.com/2012/1642961134_17a326f3d4_o.jpg

Unrelated questions:

I've replaced the PO's fuel pump hoses, mounting and fuel filter. There are two fuel filters: one near the pump, and one in the engine compartment. Should I remove the one in the engine compartment? It seems like overkill to have two.

The PO started to sand down the bonnet/hood and obviously lost interest. Thus parts of the edges are down to bare metal, with a little coating of rust. I want to cover the bare metal, and figure I can temporarily sand out the rust, spray on some primer, and then spray the whole thing with a few rattle cans of gloss blue. Comments on that plan?
 
Hi JJ,
Yup, it does look like you have got some upgraded shock absorbers there. Looks like you have Konis along with a tube shock conversion kit for the rear. Also I think you have a larger anti sway bar in the front since it does not use the standard end link and mount, wont know for sure until you measure the diameter. The brake hoses look newer also but we all know this does not mean anything. Check them closely to be sure they are good. If there is any doubt as to their condition, replace them. Looks like you got lucky.
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
RomanH said:
Hi JJ,
Yup, it does look like you have got some upgraded shock absorbers there. Looks like you have Konis along with a tube shock conversion kit for the rear. Also I think you have a larger anti sway bar in the front since it does not use the standard end link and mount, wont know for sure until you measure the diameter. The brake hoses look newer also but we all know this does not mean anything. Check them closely to be sure they are good. If there is any doubt as to their condition, replace them. Looks like you got lucky.
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
Click to expand...

Cool: thanks!
Looking in the Moss catalog, I think I recognise the shock conversion kit. In there it says that the Koni shocks are "adjustable" ...

I know the brakes aren't good, because the master cylinder level keeps dropping, and the pedal goes to the floor. Must have a leak somewhere.
 
Look under the drivers dash at the linkage where the pedal rod goes through the firewall. If you see a "trail" there you know the master cylinder is leaking.

Most exterior leaks are fairly obvious and evident with the wheels off.
 
I agree with RomanH about an upgraded front sway bat. I don't see any indication of a rear bar though. If there is not one, you will need to add one or revert back to the original front bar. The upgraded bars should only be used as a set on the TR6.
Any rust was stock from the factory. All dirt was after market add on.
 
Konis are adjustable.

Re your paint, use an etching primer on the bare
metal first, then a regular primer.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] The PO started to sand down the bonnet/hood and obviously lost interest. Thus parts of the edges are down to bare metal, with a little coating of rust. I want to cover the bare metal, and figure I can temporarily sand out the rust, spray on some primer, and then spray the whole thing with a few rattle cans of gloss blue. Comments on that plan?
[/QUOTE]

Sand off the surface rust, then following instructions use a scuff pad to apply a phosphoric acid rust converter (you can get a very good product from an Ace Hardware store).

Then a primer sealer, a primer filler, sand, and top coat. You can get good results from a quality rattle can paint, especially if two-three coats, sanded smooth between coats.
 
DougF said:
If there is not one, you will need to add one or revert back to the original front bar. The upgraded bars should only be used as a set on the TR6.
Click to expand...

Not absolutely necessary though. That advice IS critical when adding a rear bar so that the front bar is increased as well. While putting a bar as large or larger than the front bar on the rear will drastically increase oversteer. Changing only to a larger front sway bar will lessen the body roll but will also increase understeer. BTW, understeer is generally thought of as safer than oversteer.

Swaybars/anti-roll bars work to increase roll resistance. There are multiple ways to increase roll resistance and it is easy to increase the roll resistance on the rear of a TR6 without even using a rear bar. Its the increase in the rear roll resistance that causes the oversteer. Doing so without a rear bar could necessitate a larger front bar by itself.

Speaking from experience, with a 7/8" front bar, no rear bar and plenty of increased roll resistance in the rear providing a very balanced TR6.
 
TR6oldtimer said:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] The PO started to sand down the bonnet/hood and obviously lost interest. Thus parts of the edges are down to bare metal, with a little coating of rust. I want to cover the bare metal, and figure I can temporarily sand out the rust, spray on some primer, and then spray the whole thing with a few rattle cans of gloss blue. Comments on that plan?
Click to expand...

Sand off the surface rust, then following instructions use a scuff pad to apply a phosphoric acid rust converter (you can get a very good product from an Ace Hardware store).

Then a primer sealer, a primer filler, sand, and top coat. You can get good results from a quality rattle can paint, especially if two-three coats, sanded smooth between coats. [/QUOTE]

Thanks ... I started this today, used some of the etcher from the POR kit I had.

I've found by experimenting with a few touch-up pens that the paint on my car is a shade of blue called TwilightBlue. Very dark. It's growing on me.
 
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