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Kingpin assembly

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dsltek432

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When installing new kingpins on my 75 B , what am I aiming for when installing the shims. Should it be free to turn or a little snug. The worthless manual I have is not very helpful. Which brings up another question. What is the best manual out there that covers the rebuild of all components of this car?
 
I'll agree about the manuals. But I really have to agree about this forum. You can't beat the combined eons of experience that everyone here has. You can learn so much here.

I cannot help you with king pins but do a search and see what you come up with. That topic has been covered & you might find something now, until everyone gets up.

Welcome to the BCF.
 
When he comes up, Tom Bedenbaugh is THE expert on rebuilding front suspensions.
 
I aim for no noticeable end-float and free to pivot easily. I don't know why so many of the same size shims come in a rebuild kit unless they are just trying to dispose of them. Many times I have to reuse some of the old shims.

Alan T
 
Thanks for the replies. Got to ream the other pair of bushings and get these things assembled.May even have my shell on 4 wheels this weekend. Guess I'll order a Bentley manual. Finally getting started on this car after waiting about 5 years.
 
Interesting...I also have one of those 'shells' that has been sitting for about five years. It is as nice underneath as on top. I wish I could get myself motivated to finish it.

Alan T
 

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My motivation came when my wife told me "you never finish anything you start". That's all I needed. By the way, your shell looks pretty good. A little body work and paint are next on the agenda for me.
 
It worked opposite with me. I finished a Jaguar MKII for my wife and she took off with it and did not come back. My new GF is absolutely clueless about LBC's and I want to keep it that way.

Alan T
 
I am working on the same right now. Havent been able to find hardly any information through searches or books. Im just aiming for as close as I can get to 60 ft-lbs of torque on the top nut, and at the same time having minimal end play and the swivle axle free to turn. Im switching different thicknesses of adjustment washers either side of the brass thrust washer. When I get close if I dont have a thinner shim to go to I sand the brass shim with a piece of sandpaper on glass. It seems to be an iteration back and forth. When I get through I make sure and use a new lock nut. Its a real pain in the butt. I can see why most people just buy rebuilt , install and forget.
 
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