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Just had a dumb thought

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jlaird

jlaird

Great Pumpkin
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Is the dampner bolt threaded backwards. ie turn to right to remove? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif
 
I don't get it.
 
Knowing which bolt might help us ;-)

AFAIR the answer is no. The only thingsI can think of that are left handed are the big nuts on the end of the axle casing (and 2 of the wheel spinners on wire wheel cars of course)
 
Heh, the bolt that goes in the front of the crank shaft and holds the dampner on.

Maybe, engine turns clockwise so the bolt would be standard threaded? Thought for a bit last nite I was trying to turn it the wrong way. Darn thing, going to have to put some heat to it, it is really stuck.

I will not pick that engine up and put in truck, no way. Three weeks and my back is still sore. Otherwise I would let my friendly machine shop remove it.

All I really need at the present is the darn timeing chain cover. Shucks, even had a big pipe wrench on it, where's that darn torch.
 
Nope, right-handed
 
I though I heard somewhere in this forum once before that that bolt is pretty hard to remove. somewhere along the lines, of cussing the british for allowing people to invent such a difficult part to remove.
 
Zips right off with an impact wrench.
 
I tried an 150 ft/lbs. impact wrench. Didn't budge. I ended up wedging a short section of 2x4 between the crank and the block. A 2' breaker bar and a few grunts and groans and it should break free.

When re-installing... LOCKTITE! They can come loose.
 
I didn't use locktite, I just used the concave washer and bent it into the detent on the pulley and two flats of the bolt head.
 
Hmmmm... Might not be relevent, but to remove the harmonic damper bolt on my toyota... I put a long breaker bar on it, and rested the bar against the frame... then (with the coil wire removed) hit the starter. Easiest bolt I ever loosened.
 
[ QUOTE ]
...I put a long breaker bar on it, and rested the bar against the frame... then (with the coil wire removed) hit the starter.

[/ QUOTE ]
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif
I did this as well, except with an 18" crescent wrench. The only way to do it, IMHO.... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 
With engine in car, I used a 3/4" drive socket (which happens to be the same one as fits the rear axle in 1500's, not sure about A series engines). I cut it off so that it would clear the steering rack, then attached the 3/4" drive ratchet, which is designed to have a pipe installed on the end of it for more torque. I then used about 6' of pipe to turn it until the parking brake wouldn't hold it any longer. I had to have it on a lift to do this, so I couldn't apply unlimited torque.
 
I raised the engine, put the car in gear, set the parking brake, and then used the impact wrench. After the bolt was off, I was ready to use a gear puller, but the pulley pulled off by hand.
 
Guys, Jacks engine is not in the car. I use my impact, but have used a 2 X 4 between the crank and the block, with a breaker bar when I've had to. The problem with doing it that way, unless the block is secured to a stand of some kind, is that the block wants to roll over as you put the beef to the bar.
But, in another post, I see he took bits to the machine shop, so I would guess he got the damper bolt off.
Jeff
 
Noop not off, this is the second engine, I need the timeing chain cover off of it. Think it is time to pull the pan so I can block crank and a bit of heat and really put the meat to it. Going to wait a bit on back though. You never know, I might need a rod from it even, depends upon what the machine shop finds on the other parts.
 
Jack, no way should you need heat to pop the bolt off. Just lots of leverage. But, as I mentioned, the big hassle is to try to keep the block steady while applying it. Lay the block on its side, and use the 2 X 4 to not only hold the crank from turning, but to keep the block from moving. If the head is still on, you can also feed a piece of rope into one of the cylinders to keep the crank from turning.
Make sure the piston is down in the bore, and then cram in the rope.
Jeff
 
Naa, head off and striped but for pan, timeing cover and internals. crank, cam, and rods/pistons. I am just afraid to go after it right now as my back feels preaty good today so I don't want to strain anything again.. oh have been unable to find my 4 foot pipe extension for the really big jobs, sigh. Last saw it maybe 20 years ago, wonder where it got to.
 
Sorry... I missed the part about the engine not being in the car. But if'n you ever want to get one loose - in the car... That breaker-bar/starter trick works real good. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
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