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just disassembled front suspen ...

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fmichaels

fmichaels

Jedi Knight
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now that it's all clean, what lubricant do i use to put it back together ... gen purpose wheel bearing grease? ... sure looks nice all clean .. parts are in great shape as well no play and no damage. wierd thing is i have new prepacked bearings with an unknown lubricant. so if i don't clean and repack the bearings i could have a compatibility issue. again i am interested in what grease to use around the kingpin area using the two grease nipples.
 
I've always had good luck with Kendall SuperBlue grease. I've been using it for years on everything including the race cars with good results.
Jeff
 
Ok now thats just wierd. I to have been taking my front suspension apart to replace bushings and get ready to put back on the bugeye!

Should there be any side to side wobble in the king pin where it meets the fulcrum pin? If not what's the fix?

Sorry if I'm hijacking your thread!
 
no problem .. i have no play at all in any direction. i would believe that the fulcrum pin is worn .. if so that's not good news
 
Yeah I tried to get it out and like most others its fused to the King Pin. I guess its time to decide which method I want to use to get it out. Hacksaw or angle grinder.... Neither sound ver appealing really!

Wheres Trevor when I need him???????
 
Peter C. is the guy for answers about the front suspension. I'm not sure what movement you are referring to. The kingpin is locked to the fulcrum with a dowel. IIRC there is no significant wobble, but it has been many years since I had mine apart.
 
The movement I guess is most likely coming from the fulcrum pin to A arm threads. I expect to find them word when and If I ever get them out.

I have the dowel out or the king pin and the greas fitting and plug out and cant get to the slot in the fulcrum pin but it wont budge as it's stuck in the King pin. All of this sounds typical of what I've read in the past.
 
Heat, try heat. The last resort of course is do as I have and replace all including the A arms.
 
New ones are expensive, about 200 bucks each, but they are a Heratige item. And woulden't ya know it is the threads in the end that wear always as the trunon is hardened.
 
Don't waste time with heat. Cut that puppy out with a cutting wheel on your angle grinder. 5 minute job, tops.

I would be willing to bet real american dollars your fulcrum threads are worn in the a-arm. I read a thread somewhere that described boring out the holes and sweating in new thread fittings. I think the fittings were obtained through Peter C. Probably cheaper than replacing the a-arms.
 
That would be nice, the new arms are 200 bucks each.
 
Old arms also need to be carefully inspected for metal fatigue and cracks.
 
over the last week i have disassembled and stripped all parts of old paint. i can then see exactly the condition of the frame and welds. i agree that it is important to check for fatigue especially the welds. some of these welds i would characterize as tacks. so far so good, but i have another side to disassemble yet.
 
Didn't someone (Apple Hydraulics?) have rebuilt "A" arms for sale for about $90.00. I think that I saw it in Hemmings but I'm not home right now and can't verify it.
Bill
 
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