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JagMKII rear brakes dragging

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WarEagleIV

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Both sides of the rear are dragging to the point that I can not touch them after 5mi. I honed the cylinders and put new rubber in them. That help, now I can go 10mi. Can the retractors be fixed or can I just take them out and leave them out as they are not working anyway. Will that help??

Also, I have all the chrome off the car and have painted the car. Where can I get the chrome attachments that I need??
David Abbott
WarEagleIV
 
WarEagleIV said:
Both sides of the rear are dragging to the point that I can not touch them after 5mi. I honed the cylinders and put new rubber in them. That help, now I can go 10mi. Can the retractors be fixed or can I just take them out and leave them out as they are not working anyway. Will that help??

Also, I have all the chrome off the car and have painted the car. Where can I get the chrome attachments that I need??
David Abbott
WarEagleIV [/The four sweetest sounds a man will ever hear are: A Harley Davison Motor Cycle, A P51 Mustang, an Austin Healey 3000, and a good looking woman saying I love you!!!]
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Is your car automatic or manual. If an auto, check the "anti creep" solonoid operation . If manual, check that the servo is releasing all the way.
 
Thanks, I shall take the vacuum hose off the servo and plug it before I start the engine. Is there a way to check the servo to see if it is fully retracted?
War Eagle
 
When the rubber brake line hose at the rear starts going bad, they sometimes act as a one way valve. High pedal pressure can get by to the calipers, but weak pad retraction pressure can't be released and the brakes stay on.

After a short run and the brakes start to drag, jack up the rear (both wheels), try to spin each wheel. If they both feel like they're draging, take one off, crack the bleeder to let any pressure out. If the hub now spins freely, you have a bad hose.

Try it on each rear wheel. It should act the same on both sides. If only on one side, then it's a caliper problem.

Phil.
 
Phil, I now have two things to try, your hose idea and the booster that may be sticking. Actually, releasing the pressure would say the problem is either source. If the pressure relief works I shall replace the hose first as it needs it anyway!
Thanks
David Abbott
 
The MK2 is not a split ( front/rear) system. If there is line pressure in the back but not in the front, the only thing separating them is the rubber hose.

Phil.
 
unless of course the serial number ends in BW, in which case there is a solonoid in the rear brake line...
 
Well, the car has been sitting for two weeks. I jucked it up and the rear wheels turned with a mim of drag. I cranked the car and applied the brakes then released. I could not turn the wheels. I quickly took one wheel off and I still could not turn the rotor or the other side wheel. I took the pressure off with the bleed valve and I could turn the rotor and other wheel with mim drag. I repeated the process twice more times with the same results. The front wheels are having no problem. I shall replace the rubber hose feeding the lines over the axle. Now, what about this solenoid? Why would one be there and what activates it. Are you talking about an automatic? This is a 3.4 with 4speed box and OD.
War Eagle
 
No solenoid, then. Likely the rear hose is the issue. Any good hydraulics shop should be able to make you a suitable new replacement, p'raps even "while-u-wait"! :thumbsup:
 
Well, you guys nailed the problem as the rear rubber brake line. I got a replacement line form SNG Barrett and installed it yesterday. The car is back to it's original high performance self. All brakes are cool !!!

However, there are little things in every car, old and new, that one would say, 'what were the engineers designing this thinking'?? The size of the bracket holding the upstream end of the rear brake hose as compared to the size of the threaded brake hose is totally unacceptable. I am amazed that I did not rip a hole in the floor board to which the bracket was tack welded.

For those of you who may have to take this part off the car in the future I shall offer the following:
1) take a wood match stick and sand the end of is down with a very slight taper so it will fit nicely into the end of a steel brake line so as to stop fluid form leaking once separated form the connection.
2) Then with a 7/16” spanner brake the upstream supply fitting on the steel tube loose. Take care not to torque the steel tube if in turning the fitting you twist the tube. If the tube tries to rotate with the fitting do #3 if it rotates freely with respect to the tube then go to #4.
3) If you try to take the steel brake line off and you see that the line is stuck to the fitting and you are putting too much torque to the tube, it would be good to get the holding device to a tube flaring kit. Clamp the holding device, using the appropriate hole, as close to the fitting as you can manage then apply limited pressure with your wrench back and forth with increasing torque till the fitting starts to brake loose. Continue the back and forth action with limited torque till you can turn the fitting through a full turn. Remove the clamp and turn the fitting out.
4) Try to remove as much undercoating and rust from the threads on the upstream end of the rubber hose as possible. I managed to first break the big nut loose so I could twist the rubber hose enough to access all around the thread end. I then used a steel brush on the end of a drill to clean the threads.
5) Then I took an abrasive cut off wheel and cut the down stream on the tube through just down stream of the from the hex nut end of the tube. I cut through the steel clamped part of the tube because I do not have a deep 15mm socket. If you have one or can borrow one you do not have to cut through the steel part buy do cut the rubber hose with a knife as close to the compressed end as possible so as to fit the socket on the tube end.
6) With a socket on one end and a spanner on the big nut holding the up stream end of the rubber brake hose to that tinny bracket you can take the hose end off without destroying the bracket and the putting a hole in the floor board.
Good luck. WarEagelIV
 
Look for the "Weasel Pee" thread on the forum for a VERY effective penetrating fluid concoction. A set of line wrenches from Sears or Snap-On can be of value when messin' with hydraulic lines, too. :wink:

A very sparing application of anti-sieze on the male threads of those things can make life easier for yourself the NEXT time the job needs doing.
...or for the next owner to thank you for. :smirk:
 
Ditto what Doc says.. It has become SOP for all of us who have spent years in the trenches(or pits, or on a creeper, or under a lift)..
 
:lol:
 
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