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jlaird

jlaird

Great Pumpkin
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Tony said I should start a new one as that problem seems solved.

Soooo, here it is.

Have to fine tune carbs now and get the darn bubble out of the clutch.

All cleaned up today, looking good.

Getting ready to get the paint finished up after the first of the year.
 
Man, that one died after only 303 posts. Let me be the first to reply on this one! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
So Jack,

Do you think I should pull the tranny and replace the gasket?
 
Not intill the mood strikes you. Heck how much does it leak?

Does the tranny level go down or the engine level?

I know questions questions questions.
 
I don't want to steal your thread, however, it is kind of nice for everyone to chat in one thread. Kind of makes it easier for me to keep everything straight>

check out "to pull or not to pull" /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
How could you steal my thread, this belongs to Basil, heh.

Was just reading the new to me Jan issue of Classic Motor sports. Of note is all the folks advertiseing in the back that I now know and a few that I even think of as frinds.

A Bugeye really kind of gets you out and about.

Just checked the plugs, looks like number three is seating its rings. Three and four a bit rich yet but comming around nicely.

Man is it nice to be positive for a change.

Oh yea, installed my newly restored cockpit surounds today, Boy oh boy. Wife said Merry Christmas and she new I would like best something for Miss Agatha. Man she is absolutely puring when I go out.
 
jlaird said:
Just checked the plugs, looks like number three is seating its rings. Three and four a bit rich yet but comming around nicely.
Click to expand...

so that means you probably should pull the engine & tranny to fix it right? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif
 
At least for this year.
 
The wife caught me. Hehe, she said these seats don't look the same.

I left the thich back stuffing out of the drivers side so I could sit about an inch further back.

Guess I should put it in so they match.

Boy, nothing gets by that lady.
 
More space is a good thing, Jack. Maybe you should pull the stuffing out of the passenger seat instead.
 
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif
jlaird said:
At least for this year.
Click to expand...

Not much left to this year...<u>BUT</u>! Jan. 1st is just around the corner!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif
 
Its the holidays, but is a diet out of the question? Padding in the seats is a very good thing.
 
jlaird said:
.....Have to fine tune carbs now and get the darn bubble out of the clutch....
Click to expand...

The jet nuts should be screwed all the way "up" and then unscrewed two full turns (or "12 flats"). This is the "rough setting" and it assumes that you have the correct needles on the pistons.

Be sure that the pistons move up and down easily. Sometimes the needles are not centered in the jets and they will drag on the jets. You may have to re-adjust the jets to center them around the piston needles.

With a warm engine, disconnect the throttle linkages so each throttle turns independently. Adjust each idle speed screw seperatly and listen for a hiss (a small hose or even a stethascope can help). When both are "hissing" about the same, the throttles are pretty even. Lock the throttles back together and set the idle speed for about 700 or 800 RPM.

Turn each jet nut up or down the same amount and look for a change in RPM. You want the highest RPM you can get but the engine should not be surging or sounding irregular. If you started with a 750 RPM idle, this may only bring you up to 775....it's not going to be a big difference. I've found that usually this "sweet spot" ends up being about 2 flats "up" (turned in) in most cars but it can vary from car to car.

Now, with air filters off, use a small screwdriver to lift the piston on each carb just a small amount (about 1/16"). If the jet nut is correct, the engine should speed up just a bit and then settle back to the same RPM. If it speeds up and stays, that carb is too rich and you need to turn the jet nut "up" (turn in) to lean it a bit. If the engine slows down, that carb is lean and you need to "drop" the jet nut (turn down) to richen it a little bit.

In the picture below, the jet nut is called the "fuel jet".

One of the things I do to bleed all the air out of the clutch line is to bleed the hose at the clutch master cylinder end too. A lot of times air gets stuck at the high end of the line and it's hard to get out. Have someone pump the clutch 5 or 6 times and hold the pedal down. Loosen the clutch hydraulic line where it goes into the master cylinder. Wait a moment and then re-tighten. Fluid (and maybe air) will spray out. This will be messy and you should cover the area with rags to catch the brake fluid (brake fluid will attack paint).


SU Carb
su%20carb.jpg
 
aeronca65t said:
jlaird....One of the things I do to bleed all the air out of the clutch line is to bleed the hose at the clutch master cylinder end too. A lot of times air gets stuck at the high end of the line and it's hard to get out. Have someone pump the clutch 5 or 6 times and hold the pedal down. Loosen the clutch hydraulic line where it goes into the master cylinder. Wait a moment and then re-tighten. Fluid (and maybe air) will spray out. This will be messy and you should cover the area with rags to catch the brake fluid (brake fluid will attack paint).[/QUOTE said:
Hah, brake fluid does attack paint and yep that is the place I need to bleed, been putting it off as it is such a mess to do but today is the day I am afraid. Wish there was a nice clean way to do that bubble but lots of paper towles tucked around is about the only way I have ever found. Oh yea, take the carpet out or you may have a mess there as well.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
All set to bleed that master clutch, now if the wife would just get up or someone would stop buy for a min.

It's tough being the only really retired guy on the block.
 
Jack, it may be time to invest in a pressure bleeder! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
Bah, I don't expect to have to do this often if at all again.

Guess I could get a bicycle tube so I could do it myself. Only takes about 3 to 5 lbs of air on top of the master to drive that bubble down where I can bleed it from the cylinder. Of course the problem with a bubble is it won't stay in one place without pressure on it.

Sometimes I have good clutch then the bubble shifts to the cylinder for a bit and no clutch. At least in this case I do know what is happening so the problem is scoped it just isn't fixed, YET.
 
Think I got the bubble/air out of the clutch finaly. What a pain.

Stoped by ace and got an o ring for the master cylinder cap. Duh, was too fat. Now to go back and get a skinny one.
 
Clutch much better but not really right yet.

When I shift at about 5K quickly up through the gears it will not release the clutch for the second shift untill I pump it once. Guess there is still some air in there. Thinking now. I did put an o ring in the MC cap stoped that seep as well.

Note that piston rings have seated, thats a releif.

Still working on carbs can't seem to get them quite right either. The lift the piston a bit does nothing but make the engine stumble. Darndest things, will keep working on them as well. Makes it a bit rough comming off the line. Guess I need to balance them again as well, will do that then try again. SUs have always been so easy to adjust in the past, maybe it is me getting older.
 
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