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The pictures I've seen of old original cars show what is possibly a seal that is molded to the shape of the square corners on the channel. I'm playing with two different seals that will need to be cut to fit. Also, the style of both seals is different and affects the way the trunk deck fits to the body. Before I make anymore mods to the deck, I would love to be using a CORRECT or at least a NEARLY CORRECT seal. Suggestions?
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Is there a CORRECT rear deck seal for 57?
- Thread starter bnw
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TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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I don't know of anyone selling a molded seal. But the seal I got from TRF a few years back fits well enough, just bending it around the corners. It doesn't hold the lid up.
Only thing, I wish I had cut it longer, as it has shrunk a bit and there is now a 1/4" or so gap where it was cut.
Only thing, I wish I had cut it longer, as it has shrunk a bit and there is now a 1/4" or so gap where it was cut.
luke44
Jedi Warrior
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bnw said:
BN - here are trunk seal pix as requested. Sorry, no section view (off cuts in trash were gone and I don't want to pull it up to disturb the glue).
Be sure to cut a small 90 degree relief chamfer in the top right corner(without cutting all the way through the piece).
luke44
Jedi Warrior
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Mmeck said:
Same stuff I used to glue my carpet and vinyl wheel arch pieces where needed - I think it was called Permatex Headliner and Carpet Adhesive "Auto Body Shop" grade. I was using 3M #08088 Trim Adhesive before but ran out.
Can't see much difference at all between the brands - I'd recommend either one. Pick it up at your local Pep Boys or Auto Zone. Comes in a spray can, about $14.00.
Coat both surfaces - the rubber and the substrate. I sprayed goops of it as needed onto a piece of cardboard and use a solder tinning brush to brush it on to where I wanted it. Excess cleans up easily with mineral spirits or paint thinner. Coat both surfaces, allow to tack up 10 minutes and then set into place. Work quick after the pieces make contact - it sticks pretty good.
Good luck with it.
Don Elliott
Obi Wan
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There are two designs for the trunk lid seal. Before TS 60000, the seal sits doun in a double walled channel formed of steel and painted when the car gets sprayed.
After TS 60000, there is only one vertical lip and the rubber seal has a slit the full length. The slit sits down onto the single steel painted lip. and is one piece because the 4 corners have been rounded.
On the TR2, the TR3 and TR3As up to TS 60000, the seal is intalled a two pieces. One fits across the top up near the gas filler cap and the 2nd piece goes down one side, turns the 90 deg. corner, goes across the bottom and then back up the other side.
Mine was like this when I bought my 1958 TR3A brand new in May, 1958. It was glued into the slot.
Since 1990, when I finished my 3-year restoration, my trunk lid seal is not glued in/ The double flange keeps it snug without any glue and just befor a judged concours, I can pull it all out and clean the dirt and dust from the slots. Then I push the seal pieces back into place and no judge has ever noticed this in 109,000 miles since 1990.
After TS 60000, there is only one vertical lip and the rubber seal has a slit the full length. The slit sits down onto the single steel painted lip. and is one piece because the 4 corners have been rounded.
On the TR2, the TR3 and TR3As up to TS 60000, the seal is intalled a two pieces. One fits across the top up near the gas filler cap and the 2nd piece goes down one side, turns the 90 deg. corner, goes across the bottom and then back up the other side.
Mine was like this when I bought my 1958 TR3A brand new in May, 1958. It was glued into the slot.
Since 1990, when I finished my 3-year restoration, my trunk lid seal is not glued in/ The double flange keeps it snug without any glue and just befor a judged concours, I can pull it all out and clean the dirt and dust from the slots. Then I push the seal pieces back into place and no judge has ever noticed this in 109,000 miles since 1990.