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Is my car's engine original?

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J

John_Progess

Jedi Warrior
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I am trying to find out if my engine is original. Vin-HBJ8L26580, Body no. 3181BJ8,71467. The engine number is 29K/RU/H1241. Casting numbers on the head are AEC 960 and on the block are 6B4C and 12B766. The odometer indicates 77K miles, pistons are std with very little bore ware and the entire engine, mounts, and OD tranny are painted an aqua green, not the normal Healey engine green and I can find no indications of any other hidden color. As best I can tell by just ratios of dates and number of cars made this appears to be a Phase I car built in the middle of April. As for background I know it spent some time in New Jersey and the last 15 or so years here in Salt Lake City. Thanks for your help and have a good day!

John
 
Re: I my cars engine origional?

The only way I know of to know is to get a Heritage Certificate, which will give you the engine number as manufactured.
 
Re: I my cars engine origional?

Even that may not prove that the original engine is installed. I have heard stories of mechanics who were keen to keeping numbers correct and changed id plates when swapping components. Some of the other members will know more about the casting numbers.

With all that said, my BJ8 had roughly the same mileage as yours and the bore wear was also minimal. Only had some grooving from dirt. Your engine could have had some work which did not involve oversize pistons. When I resealed my transmission, I painted it since it was out.

Order up a British Heritage certificate to get the correct numbers for your car. If numbers match, then chock it up to a wrong color paint job.

Mark
 
Re: I my cars engine origional?

Numbers - Numbers

You are lucky to have numbers

All I've got is the two rivets where the numbers used to be

Guess I don't have to worry

Must be original engine then.

Any one know where you can get the reverse punches?

Bob
 
Re: I my cars engine origional?

Clark Spares will punch a correct engine plate if you can furnish proof of ownership, Heritage Certificate, etc. I decided to go this route when I discovered that my block was cracked from one end to the other. My plan is to disclose to any future buyer that while the numbers match, it is not the original block. So Mark is right, even correct plates don't mean that the engine is the very one that came off the line in your car.
 
Re: I my cars engine origional?

At the risk of being glib, unless you're trying to sell the car, my view has always been that if it's a 2.9 litre C-series engine with the right manifolds and it runs well, then you're ok. My view is that as long as it's the proper engine for the car, then that was all I cared about. Otherwise, it's just like a replacement shock absorber to me. I've never understood the intrinsic value of matching numbers. If I had two BJ8s sitting side by side, and one had the original engine but ran poorly or was worn out, and the other had had its engine replaced at some point over the years, heck, I'd go with the one with the new engine.

But I realize that my views on the subject aren't mainstream.
 
Re: I my cars engine origional?

This is a good thread and maybe warrants more discussion...
I never really understood why everything on the engine could be replaced such as the head,pistons,rods,crankshaft,etc. but if it retains the original block it is the "original" engine. What if the numbers plate was originally mounted on the head??
My BJ8 had just the two rivets remaining due to the dipping of the block when restored. I have the heritage certificate and used Clarke to get a correct plate to remount.
Now I have no way to verify this was the original engine with the car due to incomplete records but it bears the correct numbers on the plate matching the certificate.
If and when I sell the car, the prospective buyers will know this information.
 
Re: I my cars engine origional?

I have the same problem..missing plate..rivet holes only. Pistons are +20..cam had self-welded to it's rear bearing! Mains and Rods totally shot and Crank seriously grooved (crank was burning on the block at the rear!) The amazing thing is the engine must have been a fantastic piece of engineering to begin with as the only sign of this "disaster-about-happen" was low oil presure when hot...no undue noises at all!!! and smooth running up to 4K! Looks like an expensive rebuild! So, without the numbers, how do I tell whether I have the correct BJ8 Phase 3 engine. Since I need a new cam any thoughts on going with the performance version?? Any help appreciated.Thanks. Cheers, David Lamb
 
Re: I my cars engine origional?

I guess what I really wanted to know is this a correct period engine for my car. The color made me wonder if it was a replacement and not correct for my cars age and therefore can I order parts based on my cars vin/engine number. I realize that tags can be put on replacement blocks, I have done it myself before block cleaning and I am also one who is not concerned with total origionality. I was hoping that by the casting numbers someone would know if this a proper engine for a 64 BJ8. Thanks and have a good day!

John
 
Re: I my cars engine origional?

Ah! We clearly all skipped right over the essense of your question! If you post some pics, that would be great!

B.
 
Re: I my cars engine origional?

John, I am a very new AH owner -- but will share my thoughts. My car is a mark III, 32719 with engine 7244 -- to me your engine number would appear to be in sequence with production stats. My head has the same casting number -- I have not recorded the casting number of the block. My reference books say phase two starts with serial number 25706; so from what info we have I would say you have an early phase II with the correct engine or engine series. Also, my engine is not the standard green -- almost blue in color. Now, while my car has been in the same family for the past 30 years (and there are some records back to 73) and has no history of engine removal, it may have been altered in it's first 6 years.
Regards,
Dennis
MGTD 3435
 
Re: I my cars engine origional?

John,

If you haven't already registered your car with Steve Byers, do so. He probably couldn't be as definitive as the Heritage Certificate, but he could tell you if it's in the ballpark. He's actually been able to match engines to bodies that for whatever reason had been previsously separated.

Robert
 
John_Progess said:
I am trying to find out if my engine is original. Vin-HBJ8L26580, Body no. 3181BJ8,71467. The engine number is 29K/RU/H1241. Casting numbers on the head are AEC 960 and on the block are 6B4C and 12B766. The odometer indicates 77K miles, pistons are std with very little bore ware and the entire engine, mounts, and OD tranny are painted an aqua green, not the normal Healey engine green and I can find no indications of any other hidden color. As best I can tell by just ratios of dates and number of cars made this appears to be a Phase I car built in the middle of April. As for background I know it spent some time in New Jersey and the last 15 or so years here in Salt Lake City. Thanks for your help and have a good day!

John
Click to expand...

Lets see if your engine is in the ballpark compared to mine;

30988 my serial # built in feb 65
-26580 yours
-------
4008 difference


H5763 My engine serial
-H1241 yours
-------
4522 difference

So it is within 500 or so serial numbers using my screwy estimate. I don't think they would necessary follow the exact sequence numbers (cars to engines) as they would need some spare engines along the way for parts stock plus they wouldn't be able to follow the exact engine serial number sequence on the assembly line. Does this prove anything ? No, it just suggests that your engine serial number is within the " ballpark ". Someone with a closer serial number to your car or engine can make the same comparison. There is no substitute for a heritage certificate although Steve Byers knowledge and records come very close.

Ed
 
From what Dennis says it sounds like someone just used a different color paint on the engine and tranny as it is a blue green color. My car is definately a late Phase I car as my frame is of the early design and it has the cubby box and long console. I will assume it is the correct peroid engine. Thanks and have a good day!

John
 
Here is a little known factiod. If an engine needed replacement by the factory warranty or rebuilt soon after sale, than it was repainted gold. I have seen a few of these "Gold-Seal" engines. Quite rare indeed and would probably qualify as concours correct if all paperwork proving it was a warranty replacement and was done by BMC authorized shop were submitted.

Just a thought but if you ever see one look at the engine tag, it will have been replaced with one with an AECxxxxxx number.

Cool eh?

Tracy
 
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