• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

intake manifold

weewillie

Darth Vader
Country flag
Offline
on the alloy intake manifold for the 1275 is there sealant around the plugs on the endsand if that is the case and there is no sealant left could i be sucking a lot of air through them
 
What kind of intake manifold, i.e., Weber or SU ?

Plugs on the end.......... can you explain that in better terms.

No sealant on the manifold on either end just gaskets.
 
They are essentially freeze plugs, although not used for that purpose. They just seal the end of the open cross over tube tat is left due to the casting process. I've replaced them before and seem to remember them being rather difficult to get out because of the oxidation on the alloy manifold and rust on the plugs. I would check for a leak when it is on the car by spraying the ends with carb cleaner and seeing if there is a change in the engine RPM's. I doubt it but anything is possible.
 
If you find a leak there, you could always use some silicone or JB Weld/epoxy on edges around the ends of the plug. In SCCA racing plugging the balance tube is allowed so I replaced a few sets of these in my life, while doing that.
 
It's been rare for me to see them leak, but the age of the cars is climbing ever upward so as Chris said: anything's possible. They're a pain to do, and benching the manifold is the only way to keep potential "loose bits" out of the engine. That's just a word of caution. As you whack 'em in place use JB Weld for a sealant around the edges. They should then outlast all of us. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

A "Worm's eye" view of the plug in question (albiet an MGB intake):

274559-intakeplug-1.jpg
 
Might not even need to replace if you clean it up well with a wire wheel even down in the edge crack and use a bit of jb weld around the outside, spairingly.
 
IF you can get to the rear one to clean it (front's easy by comparison) well, that would be worth a try before removing the manifold(s). That's if they're known to be leaking!
 
Back
Top