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Installing new rear shocks

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Wana

Wana

Jedi Hopeful
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I've successfully removed the old rear shocks and gotten the links separated from the shock arms. Any tricks, tips, watchouts for installing the new shocks? I assume that I will have to pound (with gentle loving care) the lower link bolts into the new shock levers? Also, I apparently very slightly "buggered" the first few threads on one of the lower link bolts when hammering them out as the nut will start on but then gets very hard to turn. Should I just go ahead and keep theading it on, or is there some remedy for the bolt threads that I should do first? I haven't seen where any of the parts houses sell just the lower link bolt - you have to buy the whole link assembly and I don't think I need to. Any suggestions?
 
Wana,
I may have several of the shock links in my pile of parts. I think I have about 6 old Healey rear shocks. If you cannot save yours let me know and I will check. Thanks and have a good day!

John
 
I’m a little late with this suggestion. When hammering a threaded something (bolt or shaft), spin a nut on the end so the bolt is just shy of poking out the side you’re hitting. Hammering on the nut most times will save the bolt. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
I assume that I will have to pound (with gentle loving care) the lower link bolts into the new shock levers? Any suggestions?

[/ QUOTE ]

You don't have to pound them on as the shaft and corresponding hole in the lever arm have tapered surfaces. Just wipe a small amount of anti-seize lube on the shaft to make it easier to remove in the future and tighten the nut to draw everything up tight. As Dave said before, make sure you orient the link correctly .. if it is flipped upside down the shock travel is limited and will ruin the shock on the first big bump.

Cheers,
John
 
A common problem with Healeys has been that the rear shock bolts tend to loosen with time. I think the service manual suggests checking/tightening every 3000 miles. When I replaced my rear shocks with rebuilt ones, I noticed that it was difficult to get a wrench or socket on the forward bolt while trying to tighten the nut. I have a phase 1 BJ8 (Keoke, thats a BJ7 with a wood dash to you). I ended up replacing the forward bolts with a allen wrench cap screw bolt and a steel lock nut (not nylon). It was fairly easy to get an allen wrench in the bolt to hold it in place while tightening the nut. So far, it has not loosened at all.
 
[ QUOTE ]
I’m a little late with this suggestion. When hammering a threaded something (bolt or shaft), spin a nut on the end so the bolt is just shy of poking out the side you’re hitting. Hammering on the nut most times will save the bolt. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif

[/ QUOTE ]
That's why I said a "lead" hammer. Thought it was general knowledge to put a nut on if using something else.

Wana,
The shock link is tightly crimped around the rubber insert & the threaded pin. Check carefully, if the rubber is worn or the pin is loose at all, you will have a mysterious rattle everytime you go over a small bump. New links aren't cheap, but may be needed.
D
 
[ QUOTE ]
A common problem with Healeys has been that the rear shock bolts tend to loosen with time. I think the service manual suggests checking/tightening every 3000 miles. When I replaced my rear shocks with rebuilt ones, I noticed that it was difficult to get a wrench or socket on the forward bolt while trying to tighten the nut. I have a phase 1 BJ8 (Keoke, thats a BJ7 with a wood dash to you). I ended up replacing the forward bolts with a allen wrench cap screw bolt and a steel lock nut (not nylon). It was fairly easy to get an allen wrench in the bolt to hold it in place while tightening the nut. So far, it has not loosened at all.

[/ QUOTE ]

I did somewhat the same. The real problem is that the bolt sinks into the soft aluminum shock body. It only takes a tiny bit of sink to release the tension on the shock mount bolt. Then the shock works sideways & enlarges the hole in the aluminum.

My shock bodies all have steel sleeves pressed into the mounting ears. The bolts have smooth shanks that fit snugly in the sleeves. This lets the bolts act as locating dowels to prevent lateral movement. Hardened steel washers are used between the bolt heads & shock bodies to spread out the compression on the aluminum. Grade 8 Allen head bolts are used. I don't think locking nuts are very helpful, as the problem is not of the bolts/nuts unscrewing, but of the bolts compressing the soft aluminum. Star washers between the bolt heads & the hardened washers can help compensate for slight loosening by uncompressing a bit.

The shock mounts, front & rear, are under designed & need all of the help they can get. Needless to say, loose front shocks lead to much more extensive repairs to the shock towers. I check this arrangement for torque once in a while & nothing has loosened in three years.

If you go with the original setup, checking the bolts for tightness every couple of months is not out of line.

Just my take on the problem. There are many "remedies" to prevent loose shocks.
D
 
Got the rebuilt shocks from Peter C. and got them on the car with no problems. I know that this was a very simple operation compared to other things yet to come, but I feel very good about doing this myself and not paying someone else big $$ and not knowing first hand how well it was done. A big thanks to everyone who has helped me with my learning curve to this point, and thanks in advance for all of the questions yet to come. Cheers! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
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