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TR6 Installing a new dash in TR6

bricktop

Senior Member
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How much of a challenge is it to replace the wood dash in a TR6? Can a novice like myself pull it off over a weekend or should I leave it to the pros?

Carter
 
It's doable. Getting the timber dash off and on is easy. Only 6 screws I think. The time consuming bit is getting all the guages and wiring off. I labelled everything so putting it all back together was lesser of a chore. Give it a go, not a difficult job.
Regards
Craig
 
I can copy the sequence from my maintenance manual for you if you like? Don't tell Basil (copyright).
Regards
Craig
 
Keep me posted if you do this. I am slowly going
there. One small step at a time. I have question as
to whether the windshield actually must be removed or if
it is just a windshield strip/trim?

Didn't make sense to have to remove the windshield
and I see a small strip of finish material at or
between the dash cover where it meets the windshield
looking from the inside passenger compartment.

I am thinking/hoping this is all that must come out --
not the windshield.

Read something in the repair manual about windshield.

Let me know how it goes, okay?
Dennis aka 2wrench.
 
There is no advantage to taking out the windsheild that I know of.
The only reason mine is out , cause it was being painted, but I didnt replace my dash till after I reinstalled the windshield.

It is a bit of a chore to replace but not that bad. You must have patients and a steady hand but if I could do it anyone can.

TR631-1.jpg
<span style="color: #3333FF"> </span> <span style='font-size: 17pt'> </span> <span style='font-family: Arial Black'>Theres the Lucus Ghost!</span>

TR653.jpg

tr632206010.jpg
 
Doesn't the windshield sit on top of the dash top crash pad?
 
There are two things I found helpful when working on my wood dash.

First, I removed the glove box. That gave me a much easier way to reach and even see behind (with a mirror) the dash to work on the gages. BTW, this is a great time to replace those old heater hoses under the dash.

Second, I disconnected the tach cable at the distributor. This allowed me to pull the dash away far enough to easily work behind it.
 
Kodanja, what kind of wood is that you used to replace the dash with?

I was going to replace my current, PO made, cherry dash... but not sure what to go with. Yours looks nice. Teak?

Also, anyone useing teak? Does it need to be treated every year like teak patio furniture does?

Thanks!
Aldwyn
 
There was a good post about someone who makes very nice dashes and was laid up and behind schedule. If someone could pipe up about that person ,would be greatly appreciated.
 
Can't recall if the TR dash is actually stressed but: in the Elans it is considered a load-bearing part of the body/chassis. Made of plywood and a veneer. A piece of solid wood would (huh?) likely end up splitting from the stresses. I don't recall seeing the same mountings on your cars but it may still be a consideration due to the vibrational stresses present. I'd use plywood with a layer of veneer-of-choice. Just an opinion.
 
I cut out a solid Walnut dash & used a nice natural stain the lots of varnish. To tell ya the truth I really dont see it cracking under stress in the next 10 years, but to each his own.
My 6 is not usually subjected to any real weather conditions.
When it comes to choosing a dash there are many options out there, depends what type of cash you want to invest...

https://www.tr6web.com/Documents/tr6/fascia-refinish.html
 
Good tips Tom. Thanks!

One of these days I've got to get around to doing the gauges, so that info is good to know.

I would imagine that masking the steering column heavily wouldn't hurt either for when you pull the wood back and need to rest it on something. Unless of course you like scratches or repainting parts inside the car.

I have the three new panels (plinths) for under the dash as well. I suppose that this is the best time to do those, as part of the project?
 
My father-in-law used to make solid walnut furniture. At first he only finished the surfaces that showed. The result was that with the seasonal humidity changes the walnut would shrink and expand. It also warped and cracked with the grain. Sometimes cracks that you could look through.

It was the humidity variations from high to low over days or weeks that caused the problem, not water. Water will not have much effect especially if wiped off in a reasonable time.

Later he learned to completely seal all surfaces of the wood and had few problems after that.
 
Home depot sells wire labels in duplicate in the elect section, just peel and stick A to A etc to avoid re-assembly issues.
 
I'm waiting for someone to come up with the ultimate -- a granite dashboard.

Not only looks good and is durable, but helps keep the weight distribution closer to 50-50.

Sounds like a win-win to me!!
 
Corian! ...but it would have to be done by a DuPont Certified Installer.
 
Hardi plank could work, or carbon fiber.
 
Actually saw a turned aluminum dash once on a TR6. Looked quite smart.
 
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