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Input on changing 1/4 to 1/2 elliptic rears

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F

fordtrucks4ever

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Comparing the Bugeye to a donor Midget parts pile, it doesnt appear to be much trouble to convert to 1/2 elliptic rear springs. Remove a couple of pieces on front and add mounts and reinforcements on rear. Dont know if I will actually do this, just curious. Probably been done many times before but...?
 
From a handling point of view, the 1/4 elliptic leaf springs are said to be better. Partly becasue they require radius rods which control the fore/aft motion of the rear axle. Of course, radius rods could be added to the 1/2 elliptic cars pretty easy.
The 1/2 elliptic cars are said to ride a bit smoother.
I own a 1/2 elliptic racer but I drive my friend's 1/4 elliptic Mk II Sprite racer at least once a year (I'll be racing it in a 4-Hour in 2 weeks).
I don't honestly notice much difference between the two cars in terms of handling. Both these cars are just amateur-level racers and maybe with a top-notch car, there would be a bigger difference.
 
Tis my understanding it is a bit more than just mounts. Stresses different and they got to be mounted well.
 
Stresses are <u>very</u> different. When they went back to the round wheel arches they found that the design just wasn't compatible with the 1/2 elliptic springs, and the body would crack. Hence, the return to the square arches with the 1500's.
I've raced both versions, and a properly set up 1/4 elliptic car will handle better every time.
Jeff
 
Reinforcements on the rear INCLUDE those curved box frames in the trunk of the Midget. Different design, different stress points. It can be done but be sure to transfer the structural parts along with the springs.
 
Frank, it sure seems to me that it would be a lot more work than it would be worth. I stand by my original statement regarding handling.
Jeff
 
[ QUOTE ]
Frank, it sure seems to me that it would be a lot more work than it would be worth. I stand by my original statement regarding handling.

[/ QUOTE ]

I agree, I was just answering the post.
Why would anyone want to do it is beyond me.
As for handling, there are pros and cons on each set up.
Depends on what the car is set up for.
 
I wasn't arguing, Frank. I can't imagine anyone doing it either.
For road racing, I always felt the 1/4 elliptic cars felt "tighter". More predictable, if you know what I mean. I suppose it's a subjective analysis, and I learned to race driving a Bugeye after all, so maybe I'm just biased towards that setup or handling style.
My current car has the 1/4 springs, with a watts link and panhard bar. I'll let you know how it feels when I finish it and get some seat time. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Jeff
 
Jeff
I agree with the 1/4s as better for serious handling.
But there again, my wife prefers the 1/2 leafs on any long road trips. So do I. I opted to drive the 67 from NJ to Wisconsin over the Bugeye for the ride factor since it was all interstate driving. But on a twisty road, give me 1/4s
 
""""""""for the ride factor since it was all interstate driving""""""""""

Problem with stock 1/4 elliptic spring pack is its way way WAY to much spring rate giving you a buck board ride.

Remove some leafs and put some tube shocks on the rear and it will ride better than 1/2 elips'. You can add plastic rub stips on the ends of th leafs also....take a look at some other car rear leaf packages.
 
This is an age old arguement among Spridget folks. The race track has proven both work well, I don't know if I would convert a 1/4 eliptic car though. I race several 1/2 eliptic cars and they handled fine, the only Bugeye I ever raced was a coil over car. Just for grins we make 1/2 eliptic composite leaf springs, weights like 2.5 pound a piece /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
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