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Inner wishbone removal

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H

higgins

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I need help!

I'm in the process of redoing the front suspension but unfortunately the pin assembly on one of the inner wishbones is stuck solid :madder:

The bushes seem to be completed rusted onto the pin.

Any tricks or ideas on how to remove this pin is desperately required :bow:

Looking forward to your recommendations :thankyousign:
 
It's not going to be easy...

The pin is rusted to one or both of the steel sleeves bonded inside the rubber bush.

Assuming you've already exhausted efforts using a <span style="font-weight: bold">premium rust-disolving</span> penetrating oil, then your only recourse is to cut the pin.

Using a finger-blade hacksaw (or even a cut down hacksaw blade taped to a wooden handle) you'll have to cut the pin outboard of the A-arm, but inside of the mounting bracket on the chassis. Don't be shy about renewing the blades, as there's no future in using dull cutting tools.

If the pin is only ruted to one (1) of the bushes, you might get lucky, if you cut the outboard side of the pin first (the side with the little hole).

Get comfortable, as you're in for the long haul.

Don't get me started on the forward leaf spring bushes/bolts (although, they're easy than what you're up against) :wink:
 
Haven't tried this, but you might be able to get a sharpened pickle fork (tie rod separator) under the head of the pin (https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38649). A couple whacks from a hammer might pop it loose. You'll bend the integral flatwasher a little, but you should be able to flatten it out an re-use it.

When you do get the pin out--you will--don't forget to apply anti-seize grease to it when you reinstall it.
 
I had the same problem on my BT7. I finally cut the pin with an electric Sawzall with a metal blade. Didn't take too long to do and the replacement pins are not that expensive. You will need to replace the rubber bushings anyway so don't spend too much time trying to pound out the rusted pins - just cut away.
 
Also, just to be sure you understand, make sure the suspension is at *ride height* before any suspension pivot points are tightened, upon reassembly.
 
Back in the days that I used a cutting torch every day, I could burn them out and not damage the mounts. Now, I would try the sawzall first.
 
I've used both torches and Dry Ice on rusted bolts, etc. The dry ice was the easiest to use and actually worked better than torch heat in most cases. Dry Ice can be had at some grocery stores. Shrinking the hardware actually makes a gap and most of the time you can spray more penetrating oil in the area. Heat can affect the metal and I'm not sure you want to be putting heat on a Healey frame because it can move.
Patrick
 
Yes, this job is one of the more fun things to do. Another approach other than those mentioned, would be to use an angle grinder if you have one to cut, then grind the nut off the pin as close to the mounting as possible. Then with a center punch push it through, worked for me. On reassembly I used lots of "anti-sieze" on the new pin.

Good luck and let us know how it went.
 
Patrick67BJ8 said:
I've used both torches and Dry Ice on rusted bolts, etc. The dry ice was the easiest to use and actually worked better than torch heat in most cases. Dry Ice can be had at some grocery stores. Shrinking the hardware actually makes a gap and most of the time you can spray more penetrating oil in the area. Heat can affect the metal and I'm not sure you want to be putting heat on a Healey frame because it can move.
Patrick
Click to expand...

The trick was to heat the bolt and burn it out without really heating the mount. After working in a muffler shop for a couple of years, I got pretty good at burning broken studs out of manifolds and flanges. The same trick could be used on the a arm bolts. At worst, I'd have to knock some slag off the mounts... Well, actually, at worst, I could also burn the hole open, which would be a disaster. That never happened to a healey. However, a Volvo P 1800 did not fair as well.
 
Legal Bill said:
Patrick67BJ8 said:
I've used both torches and Dry Ice on rusted bolts, etc. The dry ice was the easiest to use and actually worked better than torch heat in most cases. Dry Ice can be had at some grocery stores. Shrinking the hardware actually makes a gap and most of the time you can spray more penetrating oil in the area. Heat can affect the metal and I'm not sure you want to be putting heat on a Healey frame because it can move.
Patrick
Click to expand...

The trick was to heat the bolt and burn it out without really heating the mount. After working in a muffler shop for a couple of years, I got pretty good at burning broken studs out of manifolds and flanges. The same trick could be used on the a arm bolts. At worst, I'd have to knock some slag off the mounts... Well, actually, at worst, I could also burn the hole open, which would be a disaster. That never happened to a healey. However, a Volvo P 1800 did not fair as well.
Click to expand...
I think we're, maybe, assuming that every homeowner has a torch set-up which they can be expensive and then you have to learn how to use it. The Ice is readilty available and cheap and easy to use and one has to only remember to wear gloves.
Patrick
 
Randy Forbes said:
Also, just to be sure you understand, make sure the suspension is at *ride height* before any suspension pivot points are tightened, upon reassembly.
Click to expand...


Hi randy,

Got the last bolt after 4 hours finally out, put polyutherane bushes in the suspension and reinstalled it as per handbook at the appropriate ride height.

One question I do have however is why is it important to instal the suspension at the appropriate ride height :confuse:

What happens if this is not done accordingly?

regards

Higgins
 
Hi Higgins,
When the suspension is bolted up, the rubber bushing don't rotate, they only flex. If you tighten everything up with the wheels off the ground, you can tear the bushing when the suspension is at full compression. I believe the polyurethane is soft enough to act the same way.
 
Correct reply by Greg (as usual).

Jack up the lower A-arm so you can place a 1-1/2" to 2" tall 1/2" drive socket under the bump-stop pad on the shock absorber, opposite the side where the rubber bumper is (so, rearward side), and then let the suspension droop again.

Now, you can tighten up everything *as if* the car were sitting on the ground.

fr_shock.jpg
 
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