Inherited 59 Bugeye need help.

[PanP]

Thanks everyone for your comments. I look forward to enjoying and taking care of the bugeye for years to come.
Here are some more pictures. Has anyone used a link bar in the rear suspension (as seen in img). It is a little klunky because of the heim joints and was just wondering if it makes much difference in the performance of the rear end.

 

[Gerard]

Thanks everyone for your comments. I look forward to enjoying and taking care of the bugeye for years to come.
Here are some more pictures. Has anyone used a link bar in the rear suspension (as seen in img). It is a little klunky because of the heim joints and was just wondering if it makes much difference in the performance of the rear end.View attachment 32727View attachment 32726View attachment 32725View attachment 32724View attachment 32723

That's call a Panhard bar. It stabilizes the rear axle for better handling. It's a good thing. If properly installed, it should be parallel to the bottom of the car, including when loaded with the driver's weight.

 

[Gerard]

Thanks Gerard, sorry to get your name confused in previous post. It would make sense, my brother may have used a drum kingpin, I know he would have at least tried to shim it to spec and maybe just left it for the time being. When I disassemble it I would expect to find some shims in there right?, if that is the case could I rightly assume that the kingpin is a drum unit and would need to be replaced or is there some kind of identification mark or measurement I could use? Thanks for your help

I have some disc brake king pins around, but not sure I can lay my hand on some drum brakes ones. When I get a chance, I'll measure the location of the step, and you can compare and see which you have.

 

[PanP]

I have some disc brake king pins around, but not sure I can lay my hand on some drum brakes ones. When I get a chance, I'll measure the location of the step, and you can compare and see which you have.

Thanks Gerard, I took the front apart today and found a large thick bronze bushing at the top of kingpin flat and a very thin small shim on the first step. I assume the small step where the small shim was is where i would add additional shims to match tolerances. Everything else seems very tight, however there is some play in the bottom a-arm fulcrum pin. This movement goes away when everything is bolted together. I also noticed the shock arm end where it attaches to the kingpin has a concentric bushing in it, is that stock, or added for negative camber? Thanks for your help

 

[Gerard]

Thanks Gerard, I took the front apart today and found a large thick bronze bushing at the top of kingpin flat and a very thin small shim on the first step. I assume the small step where the small shim was is where i would add additional shims to match tolerances. Everything else seems very tight, however there is some play in the bottom a-arm fulcrum pin. This movement goes away when everything is bolted together. I also noticed the shock arm end where it attaches to the kingpin has a concentric bushing in it, is that stock, or added for negative camber? Thanks for your help

The bronze washing is correct. One shim may be too few, but you should not need a lot to get it to trunnion to snug down right.

If the shock bushing is concentric, then it's stock (these are typically rubber. If the shock bushing is eccentric, and urethane or some other harder material, then yes, it is a camber bushing, and not stock. I'm not surprised you'd find that, given the Panhard bar.

Also, if the lower fulcrum allows the kingpin to wobble when not attached at the top, the the A-arm bushings are worn. It's not unusual for it to seem to go away when everything is attached, but the A-arm or at least the bushings need to be replace. The bushing are not a DIY repair.

 

[PanP]

The bronze washing is correct. One shim may be too few, but you should not need a lot to get it to trunnion to snug down right.

If the shock bushing is concentric, then it's stock (these are typically rubber. If the shock bushing is eccentric, and urethane or some other harder material, then yes, it is a camber bushing, and not stock. I'm not surprised you'd find that, given the Panhard bar.

Also, if the lower fulcrum allows the kingpin to wobble when not attached at the top, the the A-arm bushings are worn. It's not unusual for it to seem to go away when everything is attached, but the A-arm or at least the bushings need to be replace. The bushing are not a DIY repair.

Yes, they are "eccentric" I used the wrong term and do appear to be poly. There is definitely a lot of slop in the lower fulcrum when the shock is off. I checked for movement between the kingpin and swivel and almost none is discernible so, at this point maybe the thing to do would be repair or replace the lower A-arms, if I am correct Moss offers a new replacement set. Would any machining need to be done to the bottom of the kingpin for a new fulcrum pin?

 

[Gerard]

Yes, they are "eccentric" I used the wrong term and do appear to be poly. There is definitely a lot of slop in the lower fulcrum when the shock is off. I checked for movement between the kingpin and swivel and almost none is discernible so, at this point maybe the thing to do would be repair or replace the lower A-arms, if I am correct Moss offers a new replacement set. Would any machining need to be done to the bottom of the kingpin for a new fulcrum pin?

No machining required, strictly bolt on. However, sometimes removing the old fulcrum pin can be a headache if the arm is badly worn.

Sent you a PM