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I'm BAAaaack... and I need some advice

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lesingepsycho

Jedi Warrior
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Hello eveyone,
I haven't been around often because this last year my Midget didn't really move too much,... as in not at all. Main problem was/is timing chain was audibly rattling around under the cover and I wanted to swap it out before I lunched the motor. I was putting it off as I was dreading the tear-down but, due to some unanticipated lack of employment this week, finally dove into it tonight.

Turns out the chain has about 3/4" of slack in it and the sprockets are noticeably worn. Parts are already on their way and should be here tomorrow afternoon. Anyways, as long as I'm in there I'm toying with the idea of a camshaft upgrade but don't know what's a good deal. I was looking at the Kent Cams Megadyne kits but at $480.00 that would be a stretch on my wallet. Are there other options at a better price? Do you HAVE to change out lifters and valve springs and use a timing wheel when changing your cam? Or can I just get a cam with a more agressive grind, new timing chain and sprockets, break it in easy and be ok?

OK, second question... I also wanted to add some valve stem seals so I took off the valve cover and rocker rail. I then used one of those air pressure valve retainers hooked up to my air compressor. Unfortunately what I failed to remember was that the rocker train nuts are also the head nuts so I'm pretty sure the air broke the head gasket seal. Now the head gasket only had maybe 100 miles on it since I changed it last so I'm wondering if simply reassembling and retorquing will be sufficient or am I going to have to start from scratch on the head gasket?

Thanks in advance!
JACK
 
Hello Jack,

you carry a very serious risk of ruining your new cam if you don't fit new lifters. The valve springs will probably be OK but they are not expensive anyway. Just be sure that the coils don't bind if you are going for a much higher lift. No you don't 'need' a timing wheel but it is more accurate. They also are not expensive however but to use one you also need a dial indicator to set TDC and to check for maximum lift.

Personally I would just re torque the head and try it, you have little to lose but a sump full of oil. I have got away in the past with re using a head gasket on an 'A' series engine when I was stuck without a spare. (This is the copper laminate type)

Alec
 
Call the guys at the links below.
All good companies and I think you can do better than the price you quoted.
Remember, you don't need a crazy cam for a street car and overall, it may actually end up slower. I am building a vintage-race 1275 for #11 (to replace the 1500 engine) and I intend to use a stock, MG Metro GT cam (basically, a hot street car available in the UK). Very high lift cams will require much more care and you can expect more maintainance tear-downs of the valve train.
You may be able to get you lifters reground / squared if hardening is deep enough (at least for street use, with a mild cam)...all these places have grinding equipment. Ask them.

https://www.acmespeedshop.com/

https://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/

https://www.aptfast.com

As for the head gasket, I agree with Alec. You have little to lose by just trying to re-torque the bolts. But check the sump for coolant for a while...it will look white and foamy.
 
You will need new or reground lifters with a new cam. Based on the quality of the stock lifters I don’t think I would bother with a regrind; if they are quality aftermarket hardened lifters then it may be worth a shot. You can get a stock cam reground yourself to whatever specs you want. We can help you with the info that the grinder will need. I have used Oregon Cam Grinding in Vancouver, WA. $70 (plus return shipping) if they have the master. They ground a duplicate of the APT VP6 cam for me. They don’t do nitrating but they do apply Parko lubrite on the cams. They cam has held up this season fine. If you pick a cam profile that justified new valve springs don’t forget that you can order from Isky directly, but if you use a streetable grind you should be fine with stock springs. Remember that if you go with uprated springs you need new retainers that fit that spring.

I would run with the head gasket as is for now but if you change the cam it is a lot easier to locate TDC with the head off so it may be a mute point.
 
Thanks everybody for the great advice! Now I can get to work!
JACK
 
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