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TR2/3/3A Ignition

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smdichter

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I replaced my side-entry cap with Moss Distributor Cap 163-815 and the Cobalt wires, 571-005. (p. A32 of the Moss catalog) I am getting absolutely no spark. As if the distributor rotor is too short to make contact with the inside of the new distributor cap. Car ran with the old cap and wires so it has to be something to do with the cap and rotor. Is there a different, that is, "taller" rotor that must be used? The Moss catalog specifies nothing other than a Premium Igntion Rotor (151-805) (p. A33) but the picture makes it look the same as the standard old rotor. Any thoughts? Weird.
 
To the horror of a purest, the top entry, push in cap is far better IMHO. That's not your problem. Something else is, such as a defective part or manufacture. Are you certain of no spark? You cranked it and there was no arc to a screwdriver? Don't shock yourself, so be careful. Are you sure your coil wire is secure, that you didn't connect the low tension distributor wire to the wrong side of the coil, and that your power line from the ignition is both unbroken and also connected to the proper side of the coil? And you didn't change the points and forget the proper location of the insulating washer?
 
Thanks. Pertronix ignition. Lucas Sport coil. I checed the absence of spark with my timing light, first on # 1 plug, ignition switched on, using the starter button at the solonoid, then with the timing light on the wire from the coil to the rotor and nothing. Since the car ran, albeit little shaky - I definitely had a bad wire or maybe two - which is why I decided to switch it out, I am certain I have voltage. Definitely not getting electriciy from the coil to the distributor.
 
Couple thoughts:

Do you have continuity from plug wire end to contact inside cap? (use volt/ohm meter set to ohms) Sometimes the plug wire hasn't been firmly connected inside the cap - or has pulled loose. Same thing at plug end.

If all five wires have continuity (ohm meter shows 0 resistance), and the rotor is pushed all the way down, and the new cap is correctly in place - is it possible there's a loose wire connection at the side of the distributor - the low voltage wire from the coil? the ground wire to the distributor?

Is the high voltage wire (fat ignition wire) from coil to distributor fully inserted in the distributor *and* down into the coil?

Just my two cents!
Tom
 
I recommend that you go to Pertronix and get their troubleshooting guide. You may have a problem with the Pertronix.
Regards,
Bob
 
Don't be insulted, I am only throwing this out because it has happened to me. You did remember to put the rotor back on? Along the lines of the taller cap theory check the contact that comes out of the top middle of the cap and touches the rotor. I have seen them stick or even fall out. Make sure it is sticking out far enough and pops back when you compress with your finger. On the burnt out Petronix theory they can fail if you leave the ignition on without running for too long. Good Luck! Greg
 
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