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Tips
Tips

Ignition

Rick G

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My BT7 has started to miss again...(reset the gap on the points last month and it ran great). Now having trouble starting. The points looked a little charred and the gap was off again, so I decided to put in new ones and a condensor to boot. Everything looks fine except now I get now spark at all. I think I got some wires crossed when I put it back together. Please, can anyone tell me where the lower black wire is attached to? I put it behind the condensor where it attaches, but that does not seem right. Picture is attached.
 
The condensor wire & the wire from the coil go on the threaded post that holds the point spring. Make sure that the spring & the two wires are insulated from the post by the shouldered insulator washers. The "bottom black" wire is riveted to the point plate on one end & the other end goes under one of the plate hold down/mounting screws. If it is connected with the other wires on the threaded post, the points will be permanently grounded.
D
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gifmmm Rick, are you sparking now?? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif-Keoke
 
It all seem to check out. I still have no spark. I have an ohmmeter and have tried to understand it, but frankly it is Greek to me. It has settings of 200, 2000, 20K, 200K, and 2000K. If I want to check for power to the coil, what setting do I use, and which side of the coil does the black go on and which side is the red? I assume I need to touch the needles to the 2 connections on the back of the coil and I will get some kind of reading that will tell be I have power. Alternately, I guess I could just hold the coil wire and have my wife turn the [censored] thing over.
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif
Hi Rick to check voltage on the meter it must be placed on "Volts" then the scale selected should not be less than 50 Volts. The meter will read between 10 and 15 Volts on the scale. But we still think you goofed up the new point installation,most of us did at one time or another.FWIW---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif If you car is POS GND the Red wire goes to the car frame and the Black one is to the coil's sw terminal. If NEG GND the leads get reversed. Disconnect the ,Lucar, low voltage lead to the distrbutor when you make this test-OK
 
Well........I assume that is the DCV scale on my meter. Just getting a lot of numbers scrolling around. When I touch the SW coil terminal with the black and the red to the frame...........nothing happens. I am positive ground. By the way, I was getting some firing on the old points, so I must have screwed it up somehow. Maybe I should just get one of the electronic ignitions that Moss sells. Would this solve the problem?
 
Rick;
The Pertronix Ignition units are great, But you really need to beat this problem first. It can at some future date require that you revert to points to get home and you need to know how to do it.FWIW---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif P.S. Put the old condenser back in and see what happens.In addition; disconnect the lead between the coil and the Dist and place a piece of thin cardboard between the points .Now with your meter set on OHMS select the 1 ohm scale connect the red lead to the connector in the side of the distributor which the coil wire normally connects to. Connect the black lead to ground. If the meter reads 0 you have wired the point circuit up incorrectly.
 
It lives...It lives....thanks for the input. My problem was that I did not have the coil and ground wire insulated from the post and did not get the spark. I put the wires in the proper oder and got life into the beast tonight. New adventure.....after 5 miles or so the beast died in front of an old farm house.....no this is not a farmers daughter story.....met an old hippie who just loved 3000's ...we regapped the points and tightened down everything and after a few beers I was on my way. Met a new friend...and the Healey runs great.
 
Keoke--- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
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