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Ignition Question [Ultimate Dummy Question]

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DesertSprite

Jedi Warrior
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Hello all,

This past weekend, I decided to take the distributor out of the car so that I could easily change the points and condenser. However, I didn't realize that I'm supposed to keep the clamp on the distributor...and everything got turned around all crazy like.

So...my question is, how do I get the distributor back in so that the timing is correct? I've been following the Bentley & Haynes manuals, however, things just aren't coming out right.

I have piston number 1 (the one near the radiator, right?) at TDC, and the distributor drive dog/gear is in and connected with the camshaft. However, the manuals say when I put the distributor back in, the rotor should be facing away from where plug #1 fires (i.e. - facing #3). However, when I have everything in position and go to put the dizzy in, it's facing #2 or #4...not in line with #1 or #3. Does that make sense?

Okay, here's the real dumb part of my question. Piston #1 is towards the radiator, right? And #4 is towards the firewall, right? Also, on the dizzy cap, when looking down upon it, #1 is the 'top right' right? then it goes 1, 3, 4, 2 clockwise, right?

Well, I feel like a big doofus. But, this is driving me nuts. I want to get the car running by tomorrow morning so I can take my Dad for a drive. It's his car now. I'm being stationed in Georgia and can't take it with me. So, Portland just gained one extra Spridget.

Thanks for all the help!

Joel
 
[ QUOTE ]
Piston #1 is towards the radiator, right? And #4 is towards the firewall, right? Also, on the dizzy cap, when looking down upon it, #1 is the 'top right' right? then it goes 1, 3, 4, 2 clockwise, right?
Joel

[/ QUOTE ]
All correct except the rotor turns CCW.
D
 
Hello Joel,

it is not so simple as the spark plug only fires every second TDC. So you need to get number 1 on TDC compression stroke. The easy way to be sure is to remove the rocker cover and watch the valves as you turn the engine over.
The engine will be on TDC firing number 1 when number 4 valves are 'rocking' that is the inlet opening and the exhaust closing. at that point both valves on number one will be closed. The rotor arm should then be at number i point in the distributor. You don't say what car but expect the points to be opening at number 1 about 5 to 10 degrees before TDC.

Alec
 
The above are correct but it's worth mentioning that the exact rotor position (where it's pointing) is not critical if you re-arrange the wires on the dizzy cap. The below is a method to static time your car after removing the dizzy and notes on rotor position.

Start with Piman's advice. Remove the valve cover and
spark plugs. Pull the engine over until you see the rockers for cylinder #4 are both down (tight... valves are open), the rockers on #1 are up (and the arms can be giggled, indicated that the #1's valves are closed), and the timing pointer aligns with something close to zero degrees. Once you've identified #1 TDC this way, turn the engine BACKWARDS about 30 degrees and then go FORWARD again SLOWLY, stopping at the desired static timing setting (likely somewhere close to 5 degrees before TDC).

Do not move the engine from this position. Fit the dizzy to the block. The A- and B- series engines should only accept the dizzy in one orientation as the dizzy drive dog is slightly off center. You've already set the points so, connect the dizzy to the coil (-) terminal. Connect a test lamp between coil (-) and chassis ground, then switch on the ignition. Turn the dizzy body CCW until the test lamp goes OFF. SLOWLY turn the dizzy body CW until the test light goes ON. Without moving the dizzy tighten its clamp so the assembly won't move.

Fit the spark plugs. Fit the rotor to the dizzy and hold the cap up next to the dizzy body noting where the rotor is pointing. Connect the plug wire from this position to the #1 spark plug. Now go CCW around the cap connecting the other plug wire sequentially to the plugs in cylinders 3-4-2.

It's not unheard to put the dizzy drive gear in the block in a non-standard position following an engine rebuild. This is not a critical mistake. The plug wires can be re-ordered on the cap as necessary as long as the correct wire sequence (1-3-4-2 CCW) is maintained and you put #1 plug wire on the correct cap position RELATIVE to where the rotor is pointing when you set your static timing.
 
And that is about as good an explenation as I have seen. Much better than the Haynes book in fact.
 
Since we are asking dumb questions regarding timing... I followed the above directions to adjust my static timing. #4 valves are both open, and #1 valves are both closed, and the piston is at the top of the stroke. This should be TDC, right? Where should the little dimple on my crank pulley be located at this point? Mine is at the very top. Is this correct, or do I have my timing chain lined up incorrectly?
 
Ain't a "dumb question" in th' lot!

This "dimple" you refer to: is it on the "face" of your damper?? The "notch" is different than a "dimple" and will be a 1/16" notch in the back edge of the early pulley type crank dampers and a "line" on the later ones. If you lie under the car with the engine lined up as you describe, you should see the "mark" at somewhere close to the "big" pointer index onna chain cover.
 
Ok, now I see it. This has been driving me nuts for two days... I was so close to pulling the timing cover because I thought I had the cam/crank lined up incorrectly. Everything is fine now. So what exactly is the dimple on the front of the pulley for? It looks like it is 180 off of the timing mark.

Thanks for the help!
Tony
 
And if you think it is it prob is. Test it.
 
Thanks for the explanation guys. As of right now, I am travelling cross-country on my way to Georgia, so I'll forward this explanation to my Dad...since he now owns the car.

I feel bad leaving on my trip before getting the car running for him. It's this stupid little ignition problem that keeps rearing it's head. Anyway, thanks again and it is a much better explanation than ANY 'how-to' book I've seen thus far.

Joel
 
Instead of going to the trouble of R&R the valve cover I just pull the spark plugs, put a finger over #1 nice & tight & slowly crank the engine with a pistol grip starter switch. Once I feel a good push of compression air coming out of #1 I just rotate the engine by hand to zero the timing mark on the crank pully. Then like was stated above... dont move the engine any more... & drop the dist in point @ the #1 terminal in the cap. Always worked well for me...

Good Luck!
John
 
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