I miss my A

[ronzet]

Hey LBC Lovers...

It has been a while since last I posted.....

Per the topic... just to wax philosophic....

Owing to a downturn in business I sold my nearly restored 1957 A a few months back... I really miss it... It was crankey, tempermental, and somewhat less than comfortable... but I miss it.

I drive my <span style="font-weight: bold">beater</span>/driver 66 B and enjoy it immensely... But there was just something about the A...

Ah, well, just thought I would vent...

Hope that you are all well. Hello to Doc and the others with whom I have not corresponded these last few months...

However, I do have a question... The B... Just will not start when I crank it... the starter turns it over but it will not light. I roll it and it starts immediately.... I always park it on an incline... It is a recurring problem... comes and goes... mostly comes rather than goes...

Any words of wisdom??

 

[tony barnhill]

Sorry to hear about the loss of the A, Ron....another will come along when the timing's right.

Now, to the B - have you checked your battery?

 

[ronzet]

Tony,

I trust that this reply finds you well....

The car turns over quite nicely but refuses to light. If I coast it, it fires immediately. Sometimes it starts while I crank it, other times (usually) it just will not fire... I suspect a voltage drop but it is so random that I can't narrow it down to a specific problem. It runs great once started....except for the clutch that needs to be replaced....

As for the "A"... thanks for the condolences.... I have my heart set on an MG Y when I get around to it....

 

[DrEntropy]

Geez Ron! You needn't run away from us just 'cause there's no immediate crisis relating to an LBC!!! :shocked:

As for what you describe, it sounds to me as if the iggy switch is not energising the iggy at the start position. Or that's what I'd check first. A timing light on any of the plugwires as ya have a helper spin it will give ya a good read. Flashing light, fire present...

We'll go from there.

REPORT BACK!! :laugh:

 

[David_DuBois]

I'm with Tony, the battery, battery cables, ignition system wires for voltage drop. The 66 doesn't have a ballast resistor, so there isn't a switch/relay position to switch the resistor out of the circuit during start up. Also be sure that you are not inadvertently holding the throttle down while trying to start - if the plugs or the rest of is not right up to par, holding the throttle open when starting, will cause the engine to not catch.
Cheers,

 

[MGZT260]

I've had my share of faulty ignition switches where there is no longer juice flowing to coil during crank cycle but only in on position. In such a case a push start with switch merely on will work, and sometimes, rarely, the engine will catch when turning switch back from start to on. That itself is a good indicator of faulty switch. Even if switch has no external ballast or resistor it can internally act this way. But that's an easy test to determine, without disconnecting anything (or removing main coil lead for safety) Check for volts from switch to coil in 'on' and 'crank'. If it were most of the other items, fuel, timing, it might not start so easily with a push.

If voltage checked isn't 13.6 on a full charge you could have other faults as outlined above. Less than optimal voltage can result in poor spark.

But, if it is teh switch they are available or it could be time to install a push-button start. Hide the button and chalk it up to theft deterrent.

 

[Monark192]

Ron,

Good to see you are still around. We also sold our A after realising that a full ground up restoration just wasn't going to happen.

 

[DrEntropy]

I've had my share of faulty ignition switches where there is no longer juice flowing to coil during crank cycle but only in on position. <span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">In such a case a push start with switch merely on will work, and sometimes, rarely, the engine will catch when turning switch back from start to on. That itself is a good indicator of faulty switch. Even if switch has no external ballast or resistor it can internally act this way.</span></span> But that's an easy test to determine, without disconnecting anything (or removing main coil lead for safety) Check for volts from switch to coil in 'on' and 'crank'. If it were most of the other items, fuel, timing, it might not start so easily with a push.

If voltage checked isn't 13.6 on a full charge you could have other faults as outlined above. Less than optimal voltage can result in poor spark.

But, if it is teh switch they are available or it could be time to install a push-button start. Hide the button and chalk it up to theft deterrent.

Now th' ball's in Ron's court. He's a clever lad, we'll get th' definitive answer soon. He's now got enuff intel to suss it out. :wink:

 

[ronzet]

SIMON,

Great to hear from you.... I am so sorry to hear about your decision to pass your A to someone else.... They are all common property.. You will get someone else's project as the cycle continues...

Anyway....

While I fussed with the electrical and found a somewhat less than a clean, solid connection for the ground strap from the battery to the chassis next to the left side battery... I removed, cleaned, and remounted.... I am NOT saying that this fixed the problem... BUT....

It now starts on the first crank... :thumbsup:

I am still reserving judgement.....I have had too many of these cars to think that ANYTHING is truely fixed... :wink:

 

[DrEntropy]

It now starts on the first crank... :thumbsup:

TAA-DAH!! Can't argue with that kinda proof!

 

[ronzet]

Doc,

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]TAA-DAH!! Can't argue with that kinda proof! [/QUOTE]

Too true, except for LBCs..... :wink: