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I can't drive 55

79MGB16

Senior Member
Offline
In houston most of the speed limits are 55. The problem I have is at 55 the steering wheel shakes a little bit up and down. Its not a lot, but I thought I would ask. Above or below it is fine. Any thoughts????

Thanks
Robert
driving.gif
 
I would check the security of all of the bolts and brackets holding the steering column in position. Something isn't right, and this would seem to be the cause, from the symptoms you describe.
 
tires balanced?

Mark
 
That's my thought - inbalanced tires. They can do wierd things, including shake predominantly at a certain speed, and go unnoticed at other speeds.
 
Kevin's probably correct: either unbalanced tires/wheels, a wheel out of round or a tire out of round....most times can be corrected with balancing; sometimes requires new wheel, sometimes requires 'shaving' tires!
 
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Gary Lloyd:
Just 'cuz it says 55, doesn't mean you havem to do it!!!!
angel.gif
<hr></blockquote>

Likewise, just because your speedometer reads 55, doesn't mean you're actually going 55.
driving.gif
 
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by heather:
most cops don't care if you go 5 over

[ 08-17-2003: Message edited by: heather ]
<hr></blockquote>

This is a common assumption, but not always a sure rule to live by.

Cops have bad days like the rest of us. A buddy of mine had a ticket for “ONE” mile over the speed limit. (66 in a 65)

driving.gif
 
Kinda wheels you got? Wires can go out of true pretty easily, but so can Rostyles. Also, shock condition?
-William
 
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by heather:
most cops don't care if you go 5 over

[ 08-17-2003: Message edited by: heather ]
<hr></blockquote>

I'm doing the virtual rally and I was ticketed for doing 1mph over the speed limit. So I think your theory is wrong.
grin.gif
 
See the thread on vibration ( https://www.britishcarforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=4&t=000853 ) and find a shop with a Hunter GSP9700 ( https://128.242.141.111 ). If you can find a good shop with one they can match your tires to your wheels then balance them dynamically pretty precisely with a minimum of weight with the goal of reducing vibration (not just balancing). When you go be sure to request "roadforce matching" or "balancing". They might try to shy away from it because of the cost - but the extra money is a cheap investment in making sure your wheel/tire system is properly matched and balanced. They can also tell you with precision if (and how much) runout your wheels or tires have - and whether they're so far out they're not able to be properly matched and balanced. "Weight" isn't the only factor in vibration reduction anymore.

You might also try rotating your wheels 90°-180° on the hubs and see if there's a difference.

The other suggestions about the shocks/dampers and bolts, etc, are all very valid too - and might make an imbalance problem more pronounced.

[ 08-19-2003: Message edited by: aerog ]

[ 08-19-2003: Message edited by: aerog ]</p>
 
Thanks for all the help

I am going to get the tires balanced hopefully that will help

the wheels are rostyle not wires


Thanks
Robert
 
some tires, especially cheaper ones...ie not Michelins, will have dynamic imbalances at certain speeds and there is almost nothing you can do about this except buy higher quality tires... I'm not suggesting that yours are cheap
grin.gif
but after balancing, if it still persists then you may have to live with it.

also a dynamic imbalance often only shows up at certain speeds so it may shake at 55 but disappear at 60. If the shake starts and gets worse as speed increases it is more likely a balancing issue with wheel/tire and can be corrected with weights.
 
I have a slight vibration when going about 60-65MPH. Sometimes worse than other times. These tires are only about a year old, and the wheels are brand new this year.

I called a few places that have the GSP9700, and they said they can't do a road force test because they don't have proper fittings for knock-off wheels. Said that when they apply force, it slips and messes up the readings. The only thing they could do is a standard balance (without road force) on the GSP9700, but that only equates to a normal balance.

I talked to one guy who said that he likes to do it manually on the car, and it's much more acurate with the old knock-offs. He uses some sort of strobe to acomplish it. He claims he is highly recommended by the local Jaguar club and does the old spoke knock-off wheels all the time.

What do you guys think? Is a manual balancing while on the car more effective and accurate??
 
I think that he is talking about on the car balancing, not exactly manual. The car is jacked up & a portable electric roller spinning device is pushed up against the tire to spin it. In conjunction with a strobe light mechanism he can tell exactly where to put weight.

It is probably second only to the road force setup for accuracy. Not many shops use it anymore due to it being harder to use & taking more time. In my opinion it is a good option.
D
 
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