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Hypothetical welder question

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JPSmit

JPSmit

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So, let me start this by saying I have no short term plans to buy a welder - I I come home with more tools, certain parts of my anatomy go missing. However, it is on my "one day list". Lately on Kijiji (like Craigslist) I have seen ads for TIG welders that are also Plasma cutters & stick welders. Chinese made I know but getting quite reasonable.

So, are they a better buy than MIG? why? why not? do they use gas too?

I do recall that TIGs need cleaner metal than MIGs but I also recall that you do not end up with a hard weld and can use a hammer. Are these correct recollections?

Anyways, here is what I am seeing. Thoughts?

TIG 1

TIG 2

TIG 3
 
I'm certainly no expert (whatever happened to Aweman?). But I know TIG uses shielding gas just like MIG and is a 2-handed process while MIG is usually one hand. Depending on how good your hand/eye coordination is, I'd say that TIG at least looks easier when used by a professional. A lot like OA welding, if you've tried that.

Given the choice, I'd go with TIG. One thing to watch for, though, cheap TIG torches are usually air cooled which means they get hot rather quickly. A good torch will be water cooled.
 
Another thing to consider in the cheaper machines is they usually are DC only. One of the good features of TIG welding is aluminum and that requires AC.
 
IF one was going to buy a T.I.G. welder the first thing to consider is 1. How much non ferrous metal eg. Aluminum, copper, Magnesium ect will you be welding.
For these types of materials you will need A.C. capabilities. Most home hobbyists will not have the need or experience required to do this kind of work.
So .... actually what it boils down to is. How much welding experience do you have? Can you justify the expense of a high end machine?
I can`t speak to the reliability of machines made in ? but as a rule .... you pay for what you get/or not. Speaking to the foreign made items you may not be getting exactly what you think.
For myself I say save your money take some courses at your local community college
Learn the correct procedures. Once you have the basic concepts then decide what types of machines will suit what you want to do best.
Other wise you may just be spending money you don`t have for a cheap machine sitting under your bench collecting dust.
ask around on here you may find just such a machine among the members they would be willing to sell at a discounted price.
 
Good advice Kerry. I did do a course at the local high school a couple of winters ago - just enough to be dangerous! We did not however do TIG, just MIG and Gas. (I actually liked gas welding a lot!) I actually suspect I could even borrow a machine when the time comes so, at some level this truly is hypothetical but, another part of me would like to have my own machine. Certainly at this point I can't imagine a non- ferrous application (I know, famous last words) and would never be using it for anything but light duty applications - so, I suspect an off shore model would be all that I need - though I do look at used MIGs as well. But, still the original question - MIG or TIG?
 
JP, I say MIG only beacause, if you can squeeze a trigger and write yout name, you can mig. I also say get the best machine you can afford. I'd stay away from stuff not made in US or Canada. Hobart is a lower line Miller and nice machines. Don't make the assumption you'll only do light stuff. What about build or repair a trailer, make or repair a tow hitch, brackets welded on a diff? Who knows what you will want to make. Also, if you decide to do aluminum (make a tool box, radiator shroud, console etc... you'll need more amps for the same thickness in steel.

Go ugly early, buy the biggest little machine you can afford but make sure it's a known brand and quality. There is a salvage merchandise place here that always has bad Harbor Freight machines in it.

Bottom line, buy American and keep speaking English, buy a Chinese machine and use the money you "saved" to start taking Mandurin classes... you'll need it. :wink:
 
"You can pay hundreds of dollars more for longer warranties but why should you when we service all the machines for very little so you can have the machine for a very long time. It's like the warranty never expires. Why pay for warranties in advance when you can pay for it when you require it."


Translation: The Chinese solder worse than Canadians can identify proper bacon. :jester: Machine is cheap and will break, you'll be sending us the machine and more of your money often, so keep our info handy. :hammer: We're happy to take the money you would have spent on a better machine. It would be wise to learn the name of your UPS driver. He will get pi$$ed carrying this heavy piece of crap back and forth to the truck. :mm It would be prudent to find out what he likes so you can buy him Christmas gifts as you will start to feel bad about it. :frown: We recommend one of our machines. :wink:


Buy a Miller or Hobart and the UPS guy stays a stranger. :wink:

You can pay now, or you can really pay later.
 
I tend to be cheap and only buy tools I feel I'll really need.

I have a MIG welder and an oxy-acetylene tank set.

A good TIG welder give you a bit more freedom than MIG, but there's also a slightly higher skill level required. If I was welding a lot of non-ferrous metals I'd feel different, but virtually all my welding involves steel.

The oxy-acetylene set allows me to braze iron, very thin steel sheet and also gas-weld body panels. I've also used it for silver-soldering and, if you practice, you can get moderately acceptable aluminum welds from it. I've also used those Durafix (zinc) rods to fill holes in aluminum using oxy-acetylene.
The tanks are also good from heating "stuck" bolts or rough cutting panels and holes (we call it a "Jersey Drill Dress").

For welding together sheet metal (steel body panels), (steel) angle iron or building DOM roll cages, my Hobart Handler 187 does a great job.
And technically most good MIG welders can weld aluminum (with the correct wire, gas and sometimes a Teflon liner or spool gun is required).

By the way, for years all I had was an AC arc welder and I did many, many things with that (built trailers, roll cages, etc). If you learn good setup and keep things clean (and practice, practice practice) you can do some amazing things with an ordinary, old-school AC are welder. I gave mine away because with the MIG, I didn't need it anymore.
 
aeronca65t said:
The oxy-acetylene set allows me to braze iron, very thin steel sheet and also gas-weld body panels. I've also used it for silver-soldering and, if you practice, you can get moderately acceptable aluminum welds from it. I've also used those Durafix (zinc) rods to fill holes in aluminum using oxy-acetylene.
The tanks are also good from heating "stuck" bolts or rough cutting panels and holes (we call it a "Jersey Drill Dress").
.
Click to expand...

Ya sure you want JP playin' wit fire? :jester:
 
I bought a Lincoln mig welder in 1989, it is the 110 model, and I knew that would more than enough wleder for me on the race car stuff, my friend has a much larger 220 Miller, and my welder does a better job, I used this wlder now almost weekly for 23 years, and other than replacing the linee and a mig gun, it has been flawless. I always thought I would get a bigger mig welder, but for the size stuff I work, anything car related, this welder does it all.
 
Hap Waldrop said:
I bought a Lincoln mig welder in 1989, it is the 110 model, and I knew that would more than enough wleder for me on the race car stuff, my friend has a much larger 220 Miller, and my welder does a better job, I used this wlder now almost weekly for 23 years, and other than replacing the linee and a mig gun, it has been flawless. I always thought I would get a bigger mig welder, but for the size stuff I work, anything car related, this welder does it all.
Click to expand...

Interesting. Thanks very much. Particularly about the size perspective.
 
Hap Waldrop said:
I bought a Lincoln mig welder in 1989, it is the 110 model, and I knew that would more than enough wleder for me on the race car stuff, my friend has a much larger 220 Miller, and my welder does a better job, I used this wlder now almost weekly for 23 years, and other than replacing the liner and a mig gun, it has been flawless. I always thought I would get a bigger mig welder, but for the size stuff I work on, anything car related, this welder does it all.
Click to expand...
 
Hap it sounds like you have the same welder I do. It's been fine for me as I mostly used mine for body panels. Actually this is the second one I got. The first one was stolen out of my garage one weekend about 1989. hhhhhhmmmm.
 
billspit said:
Hap it sounds like you have the same welder I do. It's been fine for me as I mostly used mine for body panels. Actually this is the second one I got. The first one was stolen out of my garage one weekend about 1989. hhhhhhmmmm.
Click to expand...


yeah, I got a really good deal on mine :smile:
 
Already been said above, I think, but I'll share my experience. I started with a small OA setup (found a MECO Aviator) which I use a lot. It is very versatile. There is an Asian knockoff of a small Victor J series that's cheap and works well. I'm sure there are many other small sets available, some very pricey. I do very little brazing but I weld sheet metal (and other stuff) with it. Then I got a Lincoln Idealarc MIG. It is a lot faster than the OA and will do plug welds but not much else that the OA won't do. I have a separate Plasma cutter that I got for one particular job but do most cutting with my bandsaw. I don't have a TIG and don't plan to get on for car work. I have a stick welder for rough work and a couple of induction spot welders. The only thing I couldn't part with is my OA.
Tom
 
TomMull said:
Already been said above, I think, but I'll share my experience. I started with a small OA setup (found a MECO Aviator) which I use a lot. It is very versatile. There is an Asian knockoff of a small Victor J series that's cheap and works well. I'm sure there are many other small sets available, some very pricey. I do very little brazing but I weld sheet metal (and other stuff) with it. Then I got a Lincoln Idealarc MIG. It is a lot faster than the OA and will do plug welds but not much else that the OA won't do. I have a separate Plasma cutter that I got for one particular job but do most cutting with my bandsaw. I don't have a TIG and don't plan to get on for car work. I have a stick welder for rough work and a couple of induction spot welders. The only thing I couldn't part with is my OA.
Tom
Click to expand...

thanks Tom but what does OA mean?
 
startech47 said:
OA = oxy-acetylene
Click to expand...

thanks. I sometimes wonder about this instead of MIG - I did find it easier to use (with a very small flame!)
 
JPSmit said:
startech47 said:
OA = oxy-acetylene
Click to expand...

thanks. I sometimes wonder about this instead of MIG - I did find it easier to use (with a very small flame!)
Click to expand...

Sorry about all the acronyms, I don't like them at all but got lazy here.
In addition: Metal Inert Gas = MIG and synonym GMAW Gas Mtal Arc Welding
Tungsten (electrode) Inert Gas = TIG
Tom
 
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