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T-Series Hydraulic Brake Switch-Early MGB-Still a problem?

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Shinsen774

Shinsen774

Jedi Warrior
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I have searched here and on other sites and found there were reliability problems with replacement aftermarket hydraulic brake light switches for early MGBs. Mine is a '64, with a DOT-5 brake fluid conversion. The previous owner replaced the switch in 2002, I think prior to the DOT-5 conversion. I am now having symptoms/problems described in the history of this forum and threads on other sites (no brake light unless pressing pedal very, very hard; other drivers hollering at me that I have no brake lights). I have ordered a new switch from Victoria British. Do y'all know if the problems with replacement switches have been rectified? Will the new switch work with lighter pressure on the brake pedal? I haven't seen anything posted recently. Thanks.

Jim
'64 MGB Tourer
 
Have you tried adjusting the switch?
 
The hydraulic brake light switch, used in the early cars are not adjustable. Jim, I hate to tell you, but the switch from V/B will last about as long as the last one you put in - they are all crap. There are two alternatives available to you to get a replacement switch to last more than a month of two. The first is to get one of the super reliable, super expensive brake light switches from the Ron Francis Wiring Co. at: https://www.ronfrancis.com/showpage.php?page=main.htm The P/N you are looking for is SW 32. The other alternative is to make up a relay/arc suppression ircuit and install it at the same time you install the new switch. Instructions for making the circuit are available at: https://www.mgexperience.net/article/brake-light-relay.html The cost of making the cicuit is less than $10.
Cheers,
 
Dave, will that switch directly replace the stock unit? Or does it have to be plumbed in with adapters? It just so happens that I'm in the market for a new switch and I've been looking for a higher quality example which will fit right in. $27 is cheap in my opinion for a quality part.
 
Looks like the Ron Francis wire connectors are different from the spade connectors on my current switch.

Thanks for the advice. I think I will go with the relay adaptation.
 
The SW 32 screws right into the existing adapter. The only difference is the electrical connector. You will have to remove the existing spade lugs (if your cars is using a spade lug switch) and install the special connector that (ibelieve) is supplied with the switch.
Cheers,
 
I recently put in the relay after reading Dave's MGexperience article (Thanks Dave!). I can report it has been very successful in reviving the performance of my latest switch. I was on the third or fourth switch in three summers.

I will watch it to see if the switch has been damaged enough that it still does not last, but if I have to use a new switch I will certainly keep the relay in place.

Also it was a very simple install.

Don
 
The switch from Victoria British came. It is marked that it is made in the UK. Are all the "stock" switches discussed here made in the UK or are some from China or elsewhere? Anyone know?
 
It was probably made by Intermotor in England. My experience with Intermotor is limited to fuel pump points and I won't buy them anymore because they are junk. Hope that the brake light switch is better (with the relay/arc suppression circuit you ordered, you shouldn't have any problems with the switch). You can get the same style switch from NAPA, made by Echlin. It also is junk, but usually it is less expensive junk than what comes from Moss or V/B.
Cheers,
 
Jim, I bought the hydraulic switch from Ron Francis wiring and it solved all of my problems. It is expensive but is rated for much longer duty than most switches and has a lower psi requirement to activate.
Ron Francis Wiring
 
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