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HS2's and apologies

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Woodie

Woodie

Jedi Warrior
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Ok first I want to apologize to all yesterday for trying to help me. I appreciate it. I was a bit short and stubborn and I was wrong in describing the old carb. It does indeed have atmospheric vacuum in front of the butteryfly not behind. I did go home after work last night, made a t-ball stand for my son and taught him how to swing and hit a ball. Cooked a BBQ had a beer enjoyed being home. At 7Pm the wife says you should go try and fix that car before you have an accident. (gotta love that woman) I went out and spent 1 1/2 hrs on it, still runs like crap. I stopped at 8:30. It seems that a carb with atmospheric vacuum to the dizzy is what the old carb had. The replacement carb requires the dizzy vac to be plugged into the intake manifold. I do not understand the difference. I do know that when driving in to work today, It coughed and sputtered the 10 miles. Tuesday it had been a smooth happy drive. I almost got run over from the back end by a truck when the car almost stalled. SO tonight or tomorrow I will put the old carb back on. I guess I will need another replacement front carb, or maybe next spring a set on new HS2's. How do I know what to order. The rear carb needs the vacuum to the cannister, the front carb needs that as well as the atmospheric dizzy vacuum advance port. Thanks for your help and suggestions........Woodie
 
you know i followed this tread all of yesterday. i think what you did and what the forum provided was great in trying the help you find the answer. i also recognize that you spent a lot of time trying to implement everyones ideas. i only hope that when it's my turn to troubleshoot my carbs that the same people are available and willing to lend a solution. some day, someone will tell me what a dizzy is so that i don't have to ask in the future. good luck woodie!
 
I think I would return the crbs to the "working" setup, then find a correct distributor, and a set of rebuildable carbs. After I had the timing sorted out, I would install the rebuilt carbs and tune.
 
Trevor, Ya know, I was just talking to the guys here at work, and that is exactly what I decided to do. Go back to what works. as far as carbs go.

About the dizzy, how do I determine if the one on the car is correct, or what I need to get if it is not. I gigure I need to do that before I get carbs.....
 
dizzy = distributor.
That term came across the pond with the cars and stuck. Ex-pat forum members (ahem) continue to use it, along with propeller shafts and dynamos.
I think everyone has become utterly frustrated with their LBC at some point or another. I have to admit if I were in your shoes, I'd have broken down and bought a weber conversion! Stick at it Woodie, it'll sing again.
 
Someone on the other thread gve you a link to Paul Tegler's web site. He has a pretty good list. You can actually buy rebuilt units from big chain auto stores, but it is a crap shoot as to what you get. I bought one from autozone (I think). I checked the advance at a few different rpm's and decided I wanted to come in quicker, so I used a weaker spring out of my old dizzy. The total advance was a little too far for my engine (I think), so I used a small zip tie on the stop to keep it from advancing as far.
I think pertronix also is now making a dizzy for the midget with a published curve. And I think there is another list member that is rebuilding them to spec...but his name escapes me.
 
i would also offer joe curto as another source of help and rebuilds. I have not dealt with him either but was told he does very good work. www.joecurto.com
 
Trev, I checked Tegler's site, I need to make sure my dizzy is 25D4 and from what I can tell the carbs are supposed to be AUD327. Now where do I find this info on the actual units on the car. Stamped or tagged ?? and where ??
 
both Moss and vicy brit carry a 328 carb, not the 327 ??
 
The dizzy you need is most likely 41271B. There are many variations on the 25D4 dizzy.
 
according to tegler the 327 is non-US (Mine is a Canadian Car) with a fixed needle, and the 328 is a US model with a biased needle. What does the needle being fixed or biased mean and what is the difference in performance...??
 
I would think the 328 or 404 would work fine. You might look at the Burlen Fuel web site to see what the difference are. A rebuild may result in carbs that work just as well, for less money.
 
Spring biased needles do not need to be centered, but they can wear out faster than needles that need to be centered. On a typical car there would be little difference on performance.
 
Trev which ones are you running, and are they ported for the dizzy, and do you have any detailed pics ....Thanks you are being real helpful,
 
About that Distributor Number... I do not think you need the B at the end.

I no longer hve dual SU's, and I honestly do not remember the #'s. The had spring biased needles and were not ported for the dizzy. The dizzy vac line was connected to the manifold.
 
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