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How would you deal with this?

bugimike

Yoda
Offline
One picture is worth a thousand frustrations!! Remember the thread about removing the fender-bead?? Is that the answer? Will the panels eventully fall apart?
 

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]How would you deal with this?[/QUOTE]

1) Denial
2) Bargaining
3) Booze
4) Acceptance
 
Morris said:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]How would you deal with this?

1) Denial
2) Bargaining
3) Booze
4) Acceptance [/QUOTE]

5) Bondo
6) high-build primer
7) resale red paint
8) D.N.O. (as opposed to a D.P.O.)

:p Now that the jokes are out of the way... That's the seam between the body tub and the rear fender on a bugeye?

-D
 
Honestly. I'd strip the top of the beading and sandblast and reassess if panel separation is warranted. If panel separation is warranted then I'd fill the seam some welding, and fiberglass. Enjoy the car for 5-7 years and sell it when the paint just starts to bubble.

If I had emotional attachment to the car then I guess I'd cry and separate the panel.
 
Whoa! That's kinda nasty!

..and I thought SWMBO's MGB beading was bad...

Fender won't fall off, but the rust mites won't stop either. Big holes and panel & bead replacement would be what come next, IMO.
 
Vee out the seam, use a rust converter dowm in the seam, seal the seam. Weld a 2" strip of metal over the seam or fill the seam with brazing. Bondo til it looks nice.
This worked for me on a Bugeye nose and still lookd perfect when I sold it 10 years later.
 
spritenut said:
Vee out the seam, use a rust converter dowm in the seam, seal the seam. Weld a 2" strip of metal over the seam or fill the seam with brazing. Bondo til it looks nice.
This worked for me on a Bugeye nose and still lookd perfect when I sold it 10 years later.

I like the sound of that the best so far! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif No DNOs in the future! I will watch it crumble first and find a new tub for the good bits!(still rather inactively looking for that new tub!)
If I get lucky on the lotto I will have to call these guys!

https://www.sebringsprite.com/bodyshell.htm
 
You may need to come up here and look at Herself's B... the rusted bead was an issue. The 'before' pix are MIA at the moment, but here's the "after":
 
I would run some straps from the inside to hold the panels in position and grind out the bead. Weld a new bead in. I know that you can get the front beads.
 
Both the "suppliers" carry it in "bulk" lengths, 5' pieces IIRC.
 
There you go Mike. It will take a bit of welding and grinding to get it right. Seal it from the back and then smooth out.
 
It's more time consuming than expensive, but what isn't on these old lumps?! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
DrEntropy said:
It's more time consuming than expensive, but what isn't on these old lumps?! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

Sheesh!! I never even thought to look for the beading as a replacement part!! Even at those "higher-priced" places it is quite inexpensive! I assume that it is all welded in?
I only need to do the rear fender beads as the front is "glasnost"( /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif )
 
And next time don't be so darn hard on it, lol.
 
Keep the pictures coming! You guys are making me feel like my project is a walk in the park!
 
Brian, I do not have the Porter book! Can you give a brief outline of his method?

Donn, I wish you were on this side of the pond (as I am sure a few others here do!). None of this stuff scares you one bit (I can tell from the pictures you post!)! Want to come to Florida for a "working vacation"? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif
 
I'd love to come to Florida... To pick up a BN2 for very little money and with no rust.

This doesn't scare me because I worked as a mechanic for 17 years and because I have unlimited time in my own garage, and because I'm not the first in this area to do this kind of work. In Denmark this is common (relatively) because of the high taxes on cars*. At the (private) university garage just north of my residense, any given week one can see this type of work. Just see the local sandblasting company's gallery here

*(registration tax 180% plus sales tax of 25% of the total (280%) making a total of 250% tax over the 100% buying cost. New cars only. Used cars can be worse.)
 
bugimike said:
Brian, I do not have the Porter book! Can you give a brief outline of his method?

I can try. He chisels out the old bead, and cleans any rust out with a 1/4" drill bit (like a router) then he fills in the gap and strengthens the joint with braze and solders only the top strip of the new bead over this joint (he cuts off the bottom part of the "T" with a hacksaw). Looks like it would work.

Brian
 
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